Jesse is an amazingly useful and intelligent Jack Russell Terrier, who loves helping around the house.
The Jack Russell terrier is a small terrier that has its origins in fox hunting. Originating from the dogs bred and used by Reverend John Russell in the early 19th century, it is a high energy breed which relies on a high level of exercise and stimulation. Jack Russells have appeared multiple times in film, television and print with several historical dogs of note. Wiki
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How to Teach Some Basic Puppy Tricks
Puppies For Dummies, 3rd Edition
Puppy tricks are a real delight and can be fun for your puppy to learn if you have the right approach: Training your puppy doesn’t have to be all work and structure. After your puppy knows the basic directions and shows that he enjoys the process of learning, teaching a trick or two spices up the normal routine.
You don’t have to teach all the tricks described here — just use the ones your puppy picks up easily. If your puppy is paw expressive, he’ll definitely get into the “Paw” or “Wave” tricks.
Never practice tricks during lesson time. Otherwise, you turn serious work into a game.
Does your puppy love a good stretch? Betcha didn’t know you could turn this one into a trick. Just follow these steps:
As your puppy’s stretching, bow toward him and say “Bow!”
Praise your puppy like he just invented the puppy biscuit.
Repeat these steps each time he stretches. Soon you’ll have him bowing on cue.
Teaching your puppy “Paw” is easy and fun. Have your puppy start from a sitting position and follow these steps:
Say “Paw” or “Shake” as you extend a treat in front of his nose with one hand and extend the other hand in front of your puppy’s leg.
If he looks puzzled, press his shoulder muscle with your empty hand.
Take his paw the instant he lifts it off the ground, reward him immediately, and praise him (see the following figure).
Soon he’ll be reaching out for you.
A puppy can learn many tricks from one action. With pawing, for example, you can teach your puppy to shake your hand, wave a big hello, or give you a high-five.
The “Wave” trick is a real charmer, especially for kids. Follow these steps:
Have your puppy sit. Extend your hand as though you were asking for paw, say “Wave paw” and hold a treat inches from his nose with your other hand.
As your puppy lifts his paw, flip your signal hand up and pull it back to wave, and reward your puppy before he’s made contact with your signaling hand.
Praise and treat him for more enthusiastic waving as he catches on.
If your puppy is conditioned to cooperate when given a treat, phase out the treats gradually. However, always praise enthusiastically!
Now your puppy’s going to learn to “High-five.” Follow these steps:
Do two “Paw” exercises. Be enthusiastic.
Hold your hand out as though you were prompting a paw, but the moment your puppy lifts his paw, shift your hand so your fingers point up. Say “High-five paw!”
Lower your hand if your puppy makes an attempt.
Soon, he’ll be bringing that paw up with gusto.
Everybody loves the “Roll over” routine. Some puppies are into it, but others would rather hibernate in Alaska than roll over. Does your puppy roll over on his own? Does he shift from side to side with ease? If you answered yes to either of these questions, your puppy will likely be excited about this trick. Follow these steps:
Get a handful of treats and encourage your puppy into a “Down” position.
Scratch him until he rolls onto his hip.
Take the treat and circle it from your puppy’s nose, under his chin, and around behind his ear over the back of his neck (see illustration a in the following figure).
Say “Roll over” as you circle the treat around his nose toward the opposite side of the floor (see illustration b in the following figure).
Imagine a string tied from the treat to your puppy’s nose. Basically, you’re trying to pull his body over.
If he seems to lean into it, praise him and flip his paws over.
When he’s rolled over, treat and praise him (see illustration c in the following figure) and encourage him to jump up.
Hund tricks
Click below on your favorite trick! indicates a working video!
More about tricks below!
The best way to teach your dog a trick, is to make it fun for her. Use praise and small treats to reward your dog.
Practice new tricks only a few minutes at a time. You never want your dog to get bored when learning new things.
Sometimes a dog will have trouble learning a new trick. For example, not all dogs can learn to fetch. Some dogs have more instinct (they are born with it) than others when it comes to carrying things in their mouths.
Roll over is difficult if your dog is dominant. Dominant dogs often don't like to expose their belly so roll over could be a challenge.
If you've tried hard to teach your dog a trick and he can't learn it, give him a break and choose another trick that's easier.
Tricks are a lot of fun!
Dogs love to learn. Tricks keep your dog alert and energetic. They give your dog a chance to play and have fun.
Be sure to visit Kids Teaching Tricks and read about the tricks that kids are teaching to their dogs. What tricks are you going to teach your dog?
Lassie was the first animal named to the Animal Hall of Fame in 1969. Lassie knew dozens of exciting tricks.
Fido's Fabulous Dog Facts
And here are some great books with a lot of tricks!
about this site!
Copyright ©1998 - 2016 by Janet Wall and Rick Wall
May be reproduced for individual or classroom use only.
Photographs, graphics, and backgrounds may not
be reproduced to other websites or for any other purpose.
Hund tricks
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der Große/Kleine Hund (Astron) Great(er)/Little or Lesser Dog
junger Hund puppy, pup
die Familie der Hunde the dog or canine family
Hunde, die (viel) bellen, beißen nicht (Prov) empty vessels make most noise (Prov)
getroffene Hunde bellen inf if the cap fits, wear it
viele Hunde sind des Hasen Tod (Prov) there is not much one person can do against many
wie Hund und Katze leben to live like cat and dog, to lead a cat-and-dog life
ich würde bei diesem Wetter keinen Hund auf die Straße jagen I wouldn't send a dog out in this weather
damit kann man keinen Hund hinterm Ofen hervorlocken inf that's not going to tempt anybody
müde wie ein Hund sein inf to be dog-tired
er ist bekannt wie ein bunter Hund inf everybody knows him
kein Hund nimmt ein Stück Brot von ihm everyone avoids him like the plague
das ist (ja) zum Junge-Hunde-Kriegen inf it's enough to give you kittens
da wird der Hund in der Pfanne verrückt inf it's enough to drive you crazy inf or round the twist (Brit) inf
da liegt der Hund begraben inf (so) that's what is/was behind it all , (Haken, Problem etc) that's the problem
er ist mit allen Hunden gehetzt inf he knows all the tricks, there are no flies on him (Brit) inf
er ist ein armer Hund he's a poor soul or devil inf
er ist völlig auf dem Hund inf he's really gone to the dogs inf
auf den Hund kommen inf to go to the dogs inf
jdn auf den Hund bringen inf to ruin sb , (gesundheitlich) to ruin sb's health
die Weiber haben/der Suff hat ihn auf den Hund gebracht inf women have/drink has been his ruin or downfall
vor die Hunde gehen inf to go to the dogs inf (=sterben) to die, to perish (=getötet werden) to cop it (Brit) inf , to be killed
du blöder Hund inf you silly or stupid bastard sl
du gemeiner Hund inf you rotten bastard sl
du schlauer or gerissener Hund inf you sly or crafty devil or old fox
schlafende Hunde soll man nicht wecken (prov) let sleeping dogs lie (Prov)
Results found in: English-German
- you rat! exp. du Hund!
- sly dog exp. gerissener Hund
- dirty dog exp. gemeiner Hund
- to give a dog a scratch exp. einen Hund kratzen
- a poor blighter exp. ein armer Hund
Examples and translations in context
Alphabetical index
Welcome to German-English Collins dictionary. Type the word that you look for in the search box above. The results will include words and phrases from the general dictionary as well as entries from the collaborative one.
Hunde tricks du kan lave med din hund
Hunde tricks sjove ting du kan lave med din hund
Bang – ligge død
I denne øvelse skal du lære din hund at ligge død. Det er en øvelsen, som det tager lidt lang tid at lære din hund. Så vær tålmodig – det skal nok lykkes
Det er en god start, hvis du og din hund rigtig gode til rulle-øvelsen. Læs den igennem og øv den rigtig meget med din hund.
Hunde tricks : Step 1
1. Find et roligt sted – gerne indendørs – og hav 5 godbidder i venstre hånd og 1 i højre.
2. Din hund skal ned at ligge, og du sætter dig på hug.
3. Tag en godbid i højre hånd og få din hund til at rulle om på ryggen.
4. I samme sekund din hund ligger på ryggen, siger du dygtig, og giver den godbidden.
5. Hold en pause på 10 til 20 sekunder og prøv igen.
Nu har du øvet dig rigtig mange gange på niveau 1, og din hund er helt sikker på, hvad øvelsen går ud på. Du begynder nu at pege på hunden med pegefinderen, mens du stadig lave den samme bevægelse med hånden som under niveau 1. Du kan også begynde at sige bang eller ligge død (du bestemmer selv, hvilket signal du vil have din hund skal reagere på). Du begynder nu at rejse dig op og stå op foran hunden, mens I laver øvelsen. Du skal sikkert stadig hjælpe den lidt med din håndbevægelse. Men efter du har lavet den rigtig mange gang, kan du pege på din hund og sige bang eller ligge død, og den kaster sig ned på ryggen.
Give me five øvelsen
En videreudvikling af giv pote
1. Find et roligt sted – gerne indendørs – og hav 5 godbidder i venstre hånd og en i højre.
2. Få hunden til at sidde foran dig.
3. Hold en godbid foran hundens næse med håndfladen vendt mod hunden og sig f.eks. “Give me five”, “High five” eller, hvad du synes lyder sjovt – det må bare ikke blive for langt. Du kan blive nødt til at sænke hånden længere ned i starten.
4. I samme sekund hunden rører din hånd med poten, siger du dygtig og giver hunden godbidden.
5. Hold en pause på 10 til 20 sekunder og prøv igen.
Nu har du øvet dig rigtig mange gange på niveau 1, og din hund er helt sikker på, hvad øvelsen går ud på. Nu kræver du af din hund, at den skal holde poten på din håndflade i flere sekunder, før du giver den godbidden.
Nu begynder du at lave øvelsen forskellige steder. Inde i huset, ude i haven, og når du er ude og lufte din hund. På den måde lærer den at gøre det forskellige steder. Du kan også lære din hund at gøre det med den anden pote eller med begge poter, altså “Give me ten”.
Gø øvelsen
1. Find et roligt sted – gerne indendørs – og hav 5 godbidder i venstre hånd og en i højre.
2. Få hunden til at sidde foran dig.
3. Hold en godbid foran hundens næse, bank dig selv på brystet og sig f.eks. Halse, Gø eller Hvad siger hunden?
4. Når hunden bevæger munden eller kommer med en eller anden lyd, siger du dygtig og giver hunden godbidden. Måske må du fjolle lidt rundt med hunden, før den kommer med en lyd. Så giv ikke op, selvom det ikke lykkes første gang.
5. Hold en pause på 10 til 20 sekunder og prøv igen.
Nu har du øvet dig rigtig mange gange på niveau 1, og din hund er helt sikker på, hvad øvelsen går ud på. Nu kræver du af din hund, at den skal vov, før den får godbidden. Så nu er det kun, når din hund gør rigtigt, at du giver den en godbid.
Nu begynder du at lave øvelsen forskellige steder. Inde i huset, ude i haven, og når du er ude og lufte din hund. På den måde lærer den at gøre det forskellige steder. Du kan også lære din hund, at den skal sige vuf flere gange, før den får godbidden.
Zigzag øvelsen
Med denne øvelse kan du lære din hund at gå zigzag (slalom) mellem dine ben
1. Find et roligt sted – gerne indendørs – og hav 5 godbidder i venstre hånd og en i højre.
2. Din hund skal sidde ved din venstre side.
3. Du siger zigzag og flytter dit højre ben frem og lokker hunden gennem benet med godbidden i højre. Hvis hunden tøver lidt, kan du opmuntre den ved at sige ja, ja.
4. Når hunden er på din højre side (den skal IKKE sidde), flytter du hurtig dit venstre ben frem og lokker hunden igennem det.
5. Hunden skal igen sidde ved dit venstre ben, du siger dygtig og giver den godbidden.
Det er vigtigt, at du i starten kun går de to skridt. Først når hunden ved, hvad øvelsen går ud på, kan du begynde at gå flere skridt. Det er også vigtigt, at du kun siger zigzag én gang, nemlig når du starter.
Nu har du øvet dig rigtig mange gange på niveau 1, og din hund er helt sikker på, hvad øvelsen går ud på. Du kan da begynde at rejse dig op, så hunden går ind og ud mellem dine ben, bare du går fremad. I starten kan du lige bruge hænderne til at vise hunden vejen, men prøv så at sige zigzag og flyt benene og se, om ikke din hund følger med.
Søge godbidder under bøtte
Du skal have nogle bøtter/beholdere, som ikke kan gå i stykker. De bør heller ikke bruges til andet, da de bliver lidt ’snaskede’. Jeg har købt mine ’bøtter’ i en legetøjsforretning for ca. 30 kr.
1. Find et roligt sted – gerne indendørs eller ude i haven.
2. Stil to bøtter op med bunden i vejret.
3. Under den ene lægger du en godbid.
4. Du kalder din hund til dig, og I stiller jer tæt på bøtterne, højest 2 – 4 meter væk.
5. Du viser din hund bøtterne og siger ’Søge’, mens du med hånden viser retningen.
Næste trin
6. Hvis din hund ikke er interesseret i bøtterne, tager du den med helt hen til dem, så den kan lugte, at der ligger noget godt under én af dem. Eller du viser din hund, at du lægger en godbid under.
7. Når din hund viser (logrer med halen, gør, står stille og snuser), at den har fundet godbidden, løfter du bøtten og lader hunden tage godbidden.
8. Måske puffer din hund til bøtten, så den vælter eller slår til den med poten. Det er helt ok.
9. Hold en pause på 10 til 20 sekunder og prøv igen.
Nu har du øvet dig rigtig mange gange på niveau 1, og din hund er helt sikker på, hvad øvelsen går ud på. Gradvis sætter du flere bøtter op. Først tre bøtter, og øv det nogle gange. Så fire bøtter, og øv det nogle
gange osv. Du kan bruge lige så mange bøtter, som du har lyst til. Men det er vigtigt, at du sætter antallet op gradvist
Nu kan du begynde at gå længere og længere væk fra bøtterne og ’sende’ din hund hen til bøtterne ved bare at sige ’Søge’. Du kan også lægge godbidder under flere af bøtterne.
Godbid på næsen
I denne øvelse skal du lære din hund at sidde stille med en godbid på næsen. På et bestemt signal skal hunden kaste godbidden op i luften og gribe den med munden
Mange hunde kaster ikke godbidden op i luften, men lader den falde ned på jorden – det er også ok.
1. Find et roligt sted – gerne indendørs.
2. Få hunden til at sidde foran dig.
3. Placer godbidden på hundens snude – forsigtigt, så du ikke forskrækker din hund – og sig VENTE.
4. Forsigtigt tager du hænderne væk fra hunden snude, og efter 1 sekund siger du JA eller VÆRSGOD og lader hunden tage godbidden.
5. Du går væk fra hunden i 10 til 20 sekunder, før du prøver igen.
Nu sætter du gradvis tiden op, som hunden skal sidde med godbidden. Du starter med 2 sekunder, 3 sekunder osv. før du siger JA/VÆRSGOD og lader din hund få godbidden. Hvis hunden forsøger at tage godbidden, skal du være hurtig og få fat i den før din hund. Så starter du bare forfra – lad være med at skælde din hund ud – den ved endnu ikke, hvad øvelsen går ud på.
Nu kan din hund sidde med godbidden på læse i længere tid – og du kan begynde at gå et skridt væk fra din hund, før du siger ja.
Kravle øvelsen
Hunde tricks : Step 1
1. Find et roligt sted – gerne indendørs – og hav 5 godbidder i venstre hånd og en i højre.
2. Få hunden til at lægge sig.
3. Langsomt fører du en godbid hen ad gulvet foran hundens snude.
4. Når hunden “maver” sig hen over gulvet en lille smule, siger du dygtig og giver din hund godbidden.
Hold en pause på 10 til 20 sekunder og prøv igen.
Husk, at det er meget vigtigt, at hunden ikke rejser bagdelen op, og derfor skal du ikke gøre det særligt langt i starten.
Nu har du øvet dig rigtig mange gange på niveau 1, og din hund er helt sikker på, hvad øvelsen går ud på. Nu kræver du af din hund, at den skal ’mave’ sig hen over gulvet lidt længere, for eksempel en meter. Gradvis kan du øge afstanden, som hunden skal kravle.
Nu begynder du at lave øvelsen forskellige steder. Inde i huset, ude i haven, og når du er ude og lufte din hund. På den måde lærer den at gøre det forskellige steder.
En anden mulighed er at sætte sig ned, folde benene som et V, og en godbid i hånden, og lok så hunden gennem benene med godbidden.
Rulleøvelsen
I denne øvelse skal du lære din hund at rulle rundt på ryggen
1. 1. Du skal bruge en godbid – noget mad, som din hund godt kan lide. Det er en god idé at bruge noget af dens mad, hvis den får tørkost.
2. Find et roligt sted indendørs, hvor I ikke bliver forstyrret.
3. Hav 5-7 godbidder i venstre hånd og 1 i højre.
4. Du skal få hunden til at ligge ned.
Først får du den til at sidde ved at holde en godbid foran dens næse, hvorefter du løfter hånden opad og lidt bagover. I samme sekund hunden sidder, siger du dygtig og giver hunden godbidden. Tag en ny godbid i højre hånd og hold den foran hunden næse. Du bevæger langsomt hånden ned mod gulvet og lidt hen ad gulvet mod dig selv, til hunden ligger ned. Du siger dygtig og giver hunden godbidden.
5. Sæt dig ned på hug.
6. Tag en ny godbid i højre hånd og hold den foran hundens næse. Så siger du ruuullle og fører langsomt hånden med godbidden lidt bagud og hen over hundens ryg, så den ikke kan undgå at rulle rundt.
7. Mens hunden lægger sig ned på siden og ruller rundt på ryggen, siger du hele tiden dygtig med en lav og rolig stemme.
8. I samme sekund hunden har rullet helt rundt, siger du dygtig, og giver den godbidden.
Du går væk fra hunden et halvt minut inden du prøver igen.
. Lær din hund at bakke
1. Find et roligt sted – gerne indendørs – og hav 5 godbidder i venstre hånd og en i højre.
2. Få hunden til at stå foran dig.
3. Hold godbidden foran hundens snude, og før hånden med godbidden ind under hundens brystkasse.
4. Når hunden går ET skridt baglæns, sig DYGTIG/ros (eller markør ord)
5. Hold en pause på 10 til 20 sekunder og prøv igen.
Nu har du øvet dig rigtig mange gange på niveau 1, og din hund er helt sikker på, hvad øvelsen går ud på. Nu kræver du af din hund, at den skal gå flere skridt baglæns, før du siger ”Dygtig” (eller markør ord) og giver din hund godbidden.
Nu begynder du at lave øvelsen forskellige steder. Inde i huset, ude i haven, og når du er ude og lufte din hund. På den måde lærer den at gøre det forskellige steder. Du kan også begynde at tage hånd-signalet væk og kun bruge lydsignalet ”Bak”.
Neje øvelsen
1. Find et roligt sted – gerne indendørs – og hav 5 godbidder i venstre hånd og en i højre.
2. Hunden skal stå foran dig.
3. Hold en godbid foran hundens næse, og før godbidden skråt ind mellem forbenene og lidt nedad. Når hunden sænker forbene ned mod jorden, siger du dygtig og giver den godbidden.
4. Hold en pause på 10 til 20 sekunder og prøv igen.
5. Pas meget på med, at hunden ikke lægger sig. I starten kan du for eksempel give den godbidden for bare at gå lidt ned i forbenene. Når den kan det, beder du den om gradvis at gå længere ned med forbenene før du giver den godbidden. Husk, det er helt ok, at det tager noget tid, før hunden fanger idéen.
Nu har du øvet dig rigtig mange gange på niveau 1, og din hund er helt sikker på, hvad øvelsen går ud på. Nu kræver du af din hund, at den skal blive længere tid nede i neje, før du giver den godbidden.
Når din hund kan blive længere tid nede i neje, begynder du at rejse dig lidt op, mens hunden stadig nejer, før du giver den godbidden. Og du begynder også at lave øvelsen forskellige steder. Inde i huset, ude i haven, og når du er ude og lufte din hund. På den måde lærer den at gøre det forskellige steder.
Vinke øvelsen
I denne øvelse skal du lære din hund at vinke
1. Find et roligt sted indendørs, hvor I ikke bliver forstyrret.
2. Hav 4 – 5 godbidder i venstre hånd og 1 i højre.
3. Du får din hund til at sidde foran dig.
4. Du viser din hund godbidden i højre hånd og vinker med hånden,
mens du siger vinke.
5. Når din hund løfter den ene pote en lille smule fra jorden, siger du ’dygtig’ og giver den godbidden. Husk at det er meget vigtigt, at hunden får godbidden i samme øjeblik, at den gør det rigtige.
6. Du går væk fra hunden i 10 til 20 sekunder, før du prøver igen.
Måske har du lidt svært ved at få din hund til at løfte poten. Prøv så at læne dig lidt til den ene side, mens du prøver igen.
Før du går videre til niveau 2,
skal du lave niveau 1 rigtig mange gange. Når du så synes, at din hund ved, hvad ’vinke’ betyder, går du videre til niveau 2.
Nu er dig og din hunde blevet rigtig gode til niveau 1, og vi gør det nu lidt sværere.
1. Find et roligt sted indendørs.
2. Hav 4 – 5 godbidder i din venstre hånd og 1 i din højre hånd. Nu skal du til at rejse dig lidt op. Du behøver ikke længere at holde godbidden helt foran hundens snude.
3. Du viser din hund godbidden i højre hånd. Så siger du vinke. Nu skal hunden beholde poten lidt længere tid i luften, før den får godbidden.
4. Du går væk fra hunden i 10 til 20 sekunder, før du prøver igen.
Lær din hund at hviske
1. Find et roligt sted – gerne indendørs – og hav 5 godbidder i venstre hånd og en i højre.
2. Få hunden til at sidde foran dig.
3. Vis din hund, at du har en godbid, hold den eventuelt som på billedet. Sig Hviske, eller hvad du synes, der lyder sjovt.
4. Når hunden bevæger munden uden lyd eller kommer med en eller anden lyd, som IKKE er et vov, siger du dygtig og giver hunden godbidden. Der kan gå noget tid, men du skal bare stille og rolig stå og vente. Det er fint, hvis hund kan gø øvelsen i forvejen.
5. Hold en pause på 10 til 20 sekunder og prøv igen.
Nu har du øvet dig rigtig mange gange på niveau 1, og din hund er helt sikker på, hvad øvelsen går ud på. Nu kræver du af din hund, at den skal hviske lidt tid ad længere, før den får godbidden.
Nu begynder du at lave øvelsen forskellige steder. Inde i huset, ude i haven, og når du er ude og lufte din hund. På den måde lærer den at gøre det forskellige steder. Du kan også bruge denne øvelse, hvis din hund gør meget, når der kommer gæster.
Balanceøvelsen
Hvis vores hunde levede frit i naturen, var de helt afhængige af at have kontrol over deres krop og kunne balancere, hvis de ville overleve
Det er vores hunde selvfølgelig ikke. Men de har stadig brug for at bruge og udvikle disse evner. En anden fordel ved balanceøvelser er, at de kræver, at hunden bruger sit hoved frem for sine kræfter.
For at lave øvelsen skal du bruge noget,
som hunden kan hoppe op på og gå hen ad. Det kan for eksempel være en træstamme, en træstub, en bænk eller andet. Det er kun din fantasi, som sætter grænsen. Du skal dog huske på ikke at vælge et sted, som kan genere andre mennesker. For eksempel er et bord med bænke et dårligt sted, fordi næste gang din hund hopper op på bordet, sidder der måske en familie og spiser madpakke.
Hvis du har en hvalp, skal du finde en meget lav træstamme eller træstub.
Hvalpe har nemlig har ikke godt af at springe op og ned fra høje steder, før de er helt udvokset. Du kan sagtens lave øvelsen, men ikke for mange gange på gåturen og kun på små stammer eller stubbe.
1. Find et roligt sted, hvor I ikke bliver forstyrret, og der ingen andre hunde er.
2. Hav 4 – 5 godbidder i venstre hånd og 1 i højre.
3. Du holder godbidden i højre hånd foran hundens snude og fører hunden op på træstammen, mens du siger op.
4. Når din hund er oppe på træstammen med alle fire ben, siger du dygtig og giver hunden godbidden.
5. Hurtigt tager du en godbid fra venstre hånd over i højre og fører hunden hen ad træstamme. Mens hunden går, skal du ikke sige andet end dygtig.
6. Du går væk fra hunden i 10 til 20 sekunder, før du prøver igen.
HUSK, at det skal være sjovt, og at du må ikke tvinge hunden, hvis den er bange. Start på lave og små træstammer, og først når hunden er tryg ved det, kan du gå videre på højere stammer og stubbe.
Før du går videre til niveau 2, skal du lave niveau 1 rigtig mange gange.
Hund på træstamme
Før du laver træstamme øvelsen med din hund, er det en god idé at øve dig nogle gange uden hund
Det er nemlig vigtigt, at du er helt sikker på, hvad du skal gøre, før du starter med at træne din hund. Det er også en god idé at lave hund på træstamme hjemme i stuen eller ude på græsset et par gange, før du prøver den på en træstamme.
1. Find et roligt sted.
2. Hav 4 – 5 godbidder i din venstre hånd og 1 i din højre hånd.
3. Du holder godbidden i højre hånd foran hundens snude og løfter hånden opad og en lille smule bagud, mens du siger sit.
4. I samme øjeblik hunden sidder, siger du dygtig og giver den godbidden.
5. Du tager en ny godbid i højre hånd. Hold kontakten med hunden ved ikke at flytte højre hånd væk fra hundens snude.
6. Du holder højre hånd foran hundens snude og trækker fremad til hunden står op, mens du siger ståå.
7. I samme øjeblik hunden står, siger du dygtig og giver den godbidden.
8. Du holder stadig højre hånd foran hundens snude og tager en ny godbid.
9. Nu skal hunden sidde igen. Se under punkt 2.
10. Ny godbid i højre hånd og husk at bevare kontakten med hundens snude.
11. Nu fører du langsomt hånden nedad mod jorden, mens du siger dææk. Når hunden ligger ned, siger du dygtig (eller markør ord) og giver den godbidden ved at lægge den mellem hundens poter. Mens hunden spiser godbidden, kan du rejse dig op. Her skal du huske at sige dygtig hele tiden.
12. Før hunden begynder at rejse sig, siger du frii og går væk fra den i 10 til 20 sekunder, før du prøver igen.
Efter du har lavet øvelsen nogle gange, begynder du at bytte rundt på rækkefølgen af sit, stå og dæk. For eksempel stå, sit, dæk eller dæk, stå, sit osv. Din hund behøver heller ikke længere sidde to gange. Sit nr. 2 er nemlig kun en slags hjælp, som gør det lettere for din hund at lægge sig ned bagefter.
Dirigeringsøvelsen
Med denne øvelse kan du lære din hund at gå i den retning, du ønsker. Du skal ikke sige noget, for eksempel højre og venstre, fordi hunde forstår ikke de to ord. Vi bliver også selv let forvirret, når vi skal huske at kende forskel på højre og venstre. Derfor bruger vi bare hænderne og armene til at vise vejen.
1. Find et roligt sted – gerne indendørs – og hav 5 godbidder i venstre hånd og en i højre.
2. Fang hundens opmærksomhed og få den eventuelt til at sidde foran dig.
3. Du kaster en godbid ud til siden (ikke for langt) og strækker højre arm ud.
4. Når hunden går i den rigtige retning og finder godbidden, siger du dygtig. (eller markør ord)
5. Fang hundens opmærksomhed igen.
6. Kast en godbid i den anden retning og stræk venstre arm ud – igen ikke for langt væk i starten.
7. Når hunden går i den rigtige retning og finder godbidden, siger du dygtig. (eller markør ord)
Hold en pause på 1 til 2 minutter og prøv igen.
Nu har du øvet dig rigtig mange gange på niveau 1, og din hund er helt sikker på, hvad øvelsen går ud på. Du begynder nu at kaste godbidderne længere væk. En gang i mellem kaster du ingen godbid, men strækker bare armen ud i den retning, du vil have hunden til at gå. Når den bevæger sig den rigtige vej, siger du dygtig og er rigtig glad for din hund.
Hunde tricks : Step 3
Nu begynder du at lave øvelsen forskellige steder.
Inde i huset, ude i haven, og når du er ude og lufte din hund. På den måde lærer den at gøre det forskellige steder. Du kan også begynde at dirigere hunden, når den skal finde en bold eller en pind, som du har gemt. Hvis du leger med bolde eller pinde med din hund, er det bedst, at hunden bruger sin næse for at finde frem til dem. På en græsplæne er det for eksempel bedre selv at gå ud og gemme pinden eller bolden frem for at kaste. Det sætter hunden på en større opgave, som gør den træt på en god måde.
En anden måde at træne dirigerings øvelsen på,
er ved hjælp af en spand, vend spanden på hoved, sæt den 5 meter fra hunden, tag hunden med op til spanden, vis den af du har en godbid i hånden, og lig så godbidden på spanden, uden at hunden får den, går så 5 meter tilbage, og send så hunde ud efter godbidden, kald så hunden tilbage, vis det går lidt langsom, så begynd at gå baglæns så du sætter hundens fat op, når den er helt sikker i denne øvelse, så øger du afstanden til spanden, kan den også klare det, så sætter du en span til op, denne gang til venstre/højre, og sætter hunden til at først hente den ene godbid, og derefter den anden, når den så kan det, så sætter man en til spand op, så der nu er en til venstre en i midten og en til højre, det er vigtig under denne øvelse, at man tydelig viser hunden med sin arm, hvilken retning den skal i, og så kan man til sidst også sætte nogle bag ved det andre spande, så man nu lære hunde at kunne rende til alle hjørner.
At sætte sin hund til at finde forskellige ting, er en god beskæftigelse for den
Den bliver træt på en god måde. Det kræver nemlig, at den bruger sin næse og sit hovedet. Hunden kan søge ting mange forskellige steder. Det kan gøres inde i huset, ude i haven, på gåturen, i skovbunden o.l. Du kan lære din hund at finde bolde, pinde, nøgler, pengepunge, vanter, dens legetøj og meget andet. Det er dog vigtigt, at du starter med en bestemt ting, for eksempel en bold. Når din hund er god til at finde den, kan du lære den at finde en ny ting. Her starter du så forfra igen med niveau 1.
1. Start inde i huset eller ude i haven.
2. Få hunden rundt og sidde ved din venstre side. Bind den eventuelt et sted, hvis den ikke kan blive siddende. Lad hunden snuse til genstanden, som den skal finde.
3. Gå lidt væk fra hunden – ca. 5 til 7 skridt – og læg tingen med en godbid under.
Det er vigtigt, at hunden ser, hvad du gør.
4. Gå tilbage til din hund og sig SØGE til den.
5. Mens hunden søger, siger du DYGTIG til den.
6. Lad være med at hjælpe din hund med at finde tingen. Lad den selv løse opgaven.. Hvis den kigger på dig, så lad være med at gøre noget. Hvis den har meget svært ved det og giver op, starter du forfra, men går kun 2 – 3 skridt væk fra den.
7. Når hunden finder tingen, siger du DYGTIG. Øvelsen er slut.
1. Få hunden rundt og sidde ved din venstre side. Bind det eventuelt et sted, hvis den ikke kan blive siddende. Det er stadig vigtigt, at hunden ser, hvad du gør.
2. Læg tingen et sted, hvor hunden ikke kan se den, evt. bag en dør eller under en busk.
3. Gå tilbage til din hund og sig SØGE til den.
4. Mens hunden søger, siger du DYGTIG.
5. Lad være med at hjælpe din hund med at finde tingen. Lad den selv løse opgaven. Hvis den kigger på dig, så lad være med at gøre noget. Hvis den har meget svært ved det og giver op, er du gået for hurtigt frem og må starter forfra med niveau 1.
6. Når den finder tingen – DYGTIG.
1. Gem tingen, mens hunden ikke ser det.
2. Kald din hund til dig og få den rundt og sidde ved din venstre side.
4. Mens den søger, siger du DYGTIG.
5. Når den finder tingen – DYGTIG.
6. Øvelsen er slut.
Søge godbidder
At sætte sin hund til at søge godbidder, er en utrolig god beskæftigelse for den
Den bliver rigtig træt på en god måde. Det kræver nemlig, at den bruger sin næse og sit hoved. Hunden bør søge mad flere gange om dagen. Det kan gøres ude i haven, på gåturen på en græsplæne, i skovbunden o.l. Du kan bruge noget af dens egen mad – hvis den får tørkost – eller noget andet, den godt kan lide, skåret i småbitte stykker. Du skal bare huske at trække den mad, du bruger, fra hundens daglige ration.
1. Find et roligt sted, hvor der ikke er andre hunde. Start gerne hjemme i haven.
2. Få hunden rundt og sidde ved din venstre side. Bind den eventuelt et sted, hvis den ikke kan blive siddende.
3. Gå lidt væk fra hunden og kast nogle godbidder på græsset.
4. Lad være med at sprede dem alt for meget i starten.
5. Gå tilbage til din hund, sig SØGE til den og send den ud til godbidderne.
6. Mens hunden søger, kan du sige DYGTIG, men det er ikke nødvendigt.
7. Lad være med at hjælpe din hund med at finde godbidder. Lad den klare det selv – det får den mest ud af. Hvis den kigger på dig, så lad være med at gøre noget.
8. Når den er færdig med at spise, kalder du den tilbage og får den rundt og sidde på din venstre side. Øvelsen er slut.
Hunde tricks : Step 2
Du begynder gradvis at sprede godbidderne mere og mere. Jo mere tid din hund skal bruge på at finde dem, jo bedre. Gør det gerne 3-4 gange om dagen i 10-15 minutter ad gangen. Du kan også sagtens gøre det, selvom det er regnvejr, og når det sner. Det har hunden ikke noget imod.
dette er en øvelse der kan drages stor nytte af. Har man f. eks haft hunden i vandet ved stranden, eller har været ude med hunden i regnvejr, er det bedre at hunden ryster sig inden den kommer ind i bilen eller huset. Hver gang hunden selv ryster sig , skal kommando og godbid falde ganske umiddelbart efter at den har gjort det. efterhånden vil hunden kunne forbinde din kommando med dens handling og vil ryste sig på kommando.
Både når man er hjemme, men også når man er i byen, er det rart at man kan få hunden til at falde til ro på sit tæppe. Start med at lokke hunden til at ligge sig ned på tæppet. Idet øjeblik hunden ligger sig ned på sit, siger du f.eks. tæppe og belønner den med godbidder. Dette skal du blive ved med indtil hunden har fundet ud af sammenhængen, og derefter øger du afstanden fra tæppet og hunden, når du giver kommandoen, roser hunden meget idet den selv ligger sig, og giver den en godbid.
benyt en lav kurv og et stykke af hundens legetøj og selvfølgelig en masse dejlige godbidder. Få hunden til at samle legetøjet op. Placer kurven mellem dine ben i begyndelsen, så vil hunden holde legetøjet over kurven, når den kommer for at få godbidden. sig ryd op, når legetøjet falder ned i kurven..gentag nogle gange og lad hunden få en pause.. Når hunden efterhånden ved hvad “Ryd op” betyder, øger man langsomt afstanden mellem legetøjet og kurven, sådan at hunden skal bevæge sig hen mod kurven for at udføre øvelsen..når hunden er rigtig dygtig, kan du sætte kurven i et andet rum..og stadig få hunden til at rydde op.
Vis hunden at du kaster nogen godbidder ind i bilen og lok den til at hoppe ind.
Idet den hopper, siger du “ind i bilen”. Gentag et par gange og tag pause. Tag hunden med dig et lille stykke bort fra bilen og kast nogen godbidder ind i bilen. Når hunden tager kontakt, siger du ” ind i bilen.” Hvis hunden tøver, så vent lidt, lad den tænke, før du gentager kommandoen. Hvis hunden stadig tøver, kan du “følge” den mod bilen. Husk at sige ordene hver gang hunden hopper ind i bilen
Tag hunden med dig hen til et bord. Lok hunden med en godbid under bordet og når den stikker hovedet eller forsvinder helt, siger du “gem dig ” og gir hunden godbidden. Gentag en del gange, men husk pause. Efter nogle gange kan du for eksempel lægge en godbid under bordet, sig “gem dig” og lad hunden gå ind og tage godbidden. Lidt efter lidt fjerner du godbidden og siger kommandoen. Lad hunden få godbidden når den kommer frem igen
Godbid i vandet
er din hund glad for at komme i vandet, kan du putte godbidder i en plastbox med låg, kaste den ud i vandet, hunden får så godbidderne, når den aflevere plastik boxen til dig. (denne opgave kræver selvfølgelig at hunden kan apportere.)
Denne øvelse kan også laves med en skål med vand, så smider man en godbid ned i vandet, og får hunden til at tage den, bemærk det er ikke alle racer der vil deltage i denne øvelse.
Hunde tricks : Step 1
Hvis din hund har mange forskellige stykker legetøj , kan du give legetøjet forskellige navne; bolden, bamsen, pivedyret, osv. Hver gang du leger med det enkelte legetøj skal du sige navnet mange gange…og når hunden har lært navnene, kan i lege navneleg..dette forudsætter selvfølgelig at din hund har lært at apportere.. Start med at lægge 2 stykker legetøj på gulvet, som den kan navnet på, feks bolden og pivedyret.
Bed hunden hente pivedyret
” må jeg få pivedyret” giv mig pivedyret” eller “pivedyret, apport”. Hvis nu hunden kommer med pivedyret, får den masser af ros og godbidder, hvis den kommer med bolden, tager du bare imod den uden at gøre andet, og beder hunden om at hente pivedyret, og husk ros og godbidder når den kommer med den….
Beløn for rigtig ting og bare tag imod den forkerte.
og efterhånden vil hunden finde ud af hvad legen går ud på…Når hunden kan legen med de 2 stykker , tager du et 3. stykke legetøj med…osv..
Hav masser af tålmodighed, nogle hunde er længe om at lære denne leg, og andre lærer et navn på tre gentagelser: så husk masser af ros og godbidder, når den gør det rigtig og træn ikke for længe, så mister hunden sin koncentration og bliver træt af legen.
2 thoughts on “ Hunde tricks du kan lave med din hund ”
Hvordan får jeg min FT springer spaniel til at gå pænt i snor (ved ve. fod) UDEN at trække??
Vil være meeeeget taknemmelig for mange legeøvelser, der kunne føre frem til målet (den glemmer det nemlig hele tiden)
Hilsen fra Amigo
Du kan få din hun til at gå på den modsatte sidde af der hvor du har snoren, og så begynder du at gå med hunden på den side, så begynder du at gå og siger gå pænt og hvergang hunden begynder at gå lidt hurtigere siger du nej, men når den gør der rigtigt skal du give den en godbid og sige dygtig……
PS du kan også få hunden til at sætte sig hvergang hunden begynder at gå hurtigere
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Hund tricks
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Hund tricks
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Filed under Hunde-Erziehung, Hunde-Training, Hundeerziehung by admin on Jul 12th, 2011 . Comment .
Hund tricks
Thursday, July 20, 2006
Tips and Tricks: Deer Hunting Tips
Here is a rule I hunt by. I never walk if I can drive and I never drive if I can use the binoculars.
Stomping around on foot all over your hunting area is a sure way to let all the game know that you are after them. The best way I have found to check out an area is to sit for a few hours, preferably at dawn and dusk, at an elevated point, such as a hilltop. From there I have a good view over the area. With a pair of high powered binoculars in the range of 10 x 40 or 10x 50, I can observe from far away what the animals are doing without ever letting them know that I am in the area.
If this is not possible I drive around in the car. Cruising the country lanes and back roads spooks game very little, they are more used to see vehicles than people on foot.
A good friend of mien has gone hunting for many years, but failed to shoot at anything. He asked me why that might be. In a brief conversation I found out that he does every year the same thing, even placed his tree stand in the same tree.
The only thing that constitutes insanity is to do the same things over and over again but expecting each time a different result. If it is not working what you have been doing then perhaps it is time to change what you are doing and if that means you have to get out of your comfort zone then so be it. It is often not what you do that spells the difference but what you are not doing but should do.
To upon your hunting success and make it a lot more fun, take this advice to heart. First you got to hunt on some place where there are deer. Some hunters I know of hunt on places where there are no deer or very few and far in between. Second I always hunt places where there aren’t many hunters. This to me is the most important aspect. I know most of us hunt on public land, where it seems at times that there are more hunters than game. But even these places have pockets where other hunters do not venture to, for various reasons, mostly because these places are to far away from the car. Over the years I have become somewhat an expert on public land hunting and I always look for the places that other hunters don’t go to and that is where the deer go too. My very first Buck was killed on such a place. Right next to the parking lot in a thick dangle of undergrowth where no sane human being ever would think of going.
When I talk to hunters about deer calling then many complain that calling does not work for them. As I have often discovered in such conversations. The reasons are.
- Calling where there are no deer. The deer need to hear your call to be able to respond to it. Deer are not like elk and turkey which react to prospective calling.
- The wrong call at the wrong time of the season. Make sure you use the right call, i.e. A Doe-in-oestrus-bleat won’t work in the early season. A dominant buck grunt in an area where there are no big dominant bucks will scare all the deer out of the area. The same is true for very aggressive antler rattling.
- The most common mistake hunters make is simply to call to LOUD. Deer don’t SHOUT at each other, they whisper. A deer hears about 500 times better than a human what sounds quiet to you is deafening to a deer.
- And finally use a quality deer call, such as those from Modern Call Products. LLC. These calls come so close to the natural sound that you and more importantly the deer won’t know the difference. But not only are these calls top quality sound and material wise. They are also so small that they fit in the palm of you hand or you can keep them in your mouth with the bowstring pulled for that bleat to stop the buck just long enough to get the arrow into him.
Tree stand height.
Bring a few bow hunters together and get a conversation started about tree stand height and soon you have a very heated debate going. There are those that advocate 20ft. of the ground and even higher tree stand placement. While others are of the opinion that 12ft. to 15 is enough. Well the truth is that the most important aspect to tree stand placement is background cover and being able to get a clean shot at the deer. It is an irrefutable fact that the higher you climb up a tree the more likely you are to run out of both, the background cover and being able to make a good killing shot. That is just plain common sense.
Check your equipment when you get in the stand not when a buck walks out. Is your scope clear, will your bow draw back properly, shell in the chamber, etc. etc.
Don't leave before the legal shooting time is over. Probably the best time of the day to kill a buck is the last minute of shooting light. Don't leave your stand like me and most hunters tend to do, 10 minutes to early.
Many bowhunters have their bow poundage set too high. Not too high for the bow but to high for their arms. Its onething to be able to pull it in practice and quite another to be able to hold it steady for 30 seconds waiting for the deer to step out from behing that bush.
To increase your success. Hunt more! Sounds dumb but its the truth. You say you hunt every chance you get when you don't have to work. Well that may be true but how much of that time is spent at the camp? Why not spend the middle part of the day in the woods? Staying in bed due to bad weather! Not a good excuse! Remember deer are killed every single day of the deer season. My biggest buck was killed in the middle of the day. The largest bodied deer was killed in between rain showers. You can scoff and say this is not a real hunting tip but I promise you one thing, if you were to live by this one rule it will increase your kill opportunities more than any other tip you find ANYWHERE.
When hunting a new area, or during the rut where bucks are constantly moving, it pays in the long run to hunt a new stand each day. This is the fastest way to learn the deer movement patterns.
Ever sat in a, oh so carefully, scouted stand and wondered why the deer move past your stand hundred yards out and not by your stand where they should? There are many reasons deer avoid your stand or simply have changed their travel patterns. Some hunters keep hunting the same stand day after day in the hope the deer will come closer. The smart hunter changes the stand location to where the deer are moving. A successful hunter is adaptabs to deer movement!
If you have to relocate your stand, or set up a new stand in the middle of the hunting season, do it in the middle of the day when deer are resting and not in the morning or late afternoon when deer are on the move.
If you have any helpful deer hunting tips feel free to share them with our readers by adding them in the comment section.
41 comments:
I thought this would be another lame blog spouting off bullets point. Instead, I found it to be interesting, informative and useful.
Thank you Editor.
Yes, I try very hard to be different than other websites and blogs. What would be the point of having a website if it only would be more of the same. J
that was an interesting blog thanks for the info
Awesome job hitting up multiple aspects of the hunt. As a new bow hunter I was sceptable about public land and the pressure I would encounter from other hunters. After three seasons I found that not many take advantage of this great resource. In Nebraska I have seen nothing but big bucks and have been fortunate enough to take one. Your tips are definately useful and I think would help anybody be successful. Thanks
I have hunted for the vast majority of my life (since I was 6 I am now 38). I have found that sometimes it is best to move your after legal shooting light. I have done this several times and have had deer all over me the next day because they were not aware that I had moved. Case in Point. I was seeing deer all around me but they were moving about 75 yards away from me. i decided to move the stand that night after legal light. the next morning i went in to the new location and 20 minutes after sitting down arrowed a nice 10 point at 7 yards. he had no idea that I was even there. Sometimes it is better to move the stand when the deer are moving too as they are making noise and so are you.
You can spook deer by snapping the safety switch off. To avoid this, use your finger and thumb, finger on one side, thumb on the other, to slide the switch off.
i thought this info. was really helpful. I am 16 and started hunting about 3 years ago. I have seen bucks from 14 pointers to little cowhorns and havent killed one yet, ive shot at em but never found them. I have move to another hunting location this year behind my house and have had alot of action, my neighbor recenlty killed a 8 pointer back there. I am in high hopes with killing deer now that i have read this blog. Thank you for posting this!!
Thanks, that really helped. I have been hunting this stand on the edge of a field and the deer were moving around me in the field and in the woods, but too far away. after i read this i went out and moved my treestand to a different spot in the same field and deer are walking all over it! now there is even a deer trail running right under my stand 5 yards away. thanks!
I admit that I don't hunt, but I was interested enough to read all the way through your tips. They make sense. So much better than the advice to "buy some better deer urine" to attract the deer.
i used some of these tips and ive already killed 10 deer this year. i killed a 23 inch buck the first day.
10? what state are you in?
does anyone know how to keep your bow/gun steady? It seems like every time I shoot my gun/bow, it isn't steady. Any ideas?
I'm new to hunting and proud to say that I killed my first deer (doe) on my first season with a bow at 20 yds this year. I just so happened to have a thick 'Y' branch coming off the main trunk at about 70 degrees. As I was doing my pre-checks and drawing around my shooting lanes I used that thick branch to shoot over leaning on it with my underarm and rib cage. It was the most steady I've been with my bow that I decided to shoot some field points at the ground and made minor adjustments. It was like shooting a rifle in the prone on bipod it was so steady. I now zero my bow where I can find a suitable tree with a branch like this. If I could shoot my bow from the prone to zero it I would.
Try squeezing the trigger with your finger and nothing else. I've noticed when I think too hard about it, I not only squeeze, but sometimes pull the gun back while shooting. You have to make sure you only squeeze the trigger with your finger. You may not even realize this is happening either. Just focus on your index finger and you'll hit the bullseye.
I found this to bee really intresting especially for early season hunting. and stand placement. Thanks for the tips on everything. kalob
My stand is universal, I can sit on front of the tree or behind the tree. I prefer to sit behind the tree for better cover. I place climping spikes on each side of the tree in front of me to rest my rifle on, It gives me better stability when taking a shot.
I keep running into pack's of does. why don't i ever see a buck? It's rut, 12 horny does running around the same place for 3 years. how does this elusive buck get past me? Is there anything i can do to be more successful? any tips or help would be appreciated
You're not alone in your complaint Anonymous. It's hard to say why the bucks are not around with the little information you provided.
thanks i am going to try this and hope it works cause my time is running out and im freaking out
i have private property that i hunt on and we mowed trails through the fields and through the woods and there are tracks everywhere. the deer are lazy and take the trail and i have seen alot of deer walking on them. it also makes it alot easier for us to get to our stands.
I have been hunting for over seven years for everthing and even did some trapping. But even though I started with deer I still never had one down. I have had brown in my sights but a brach knocked the flight lone. Also I go hunting on my buddies land and he's mr. No it all this year I wiser up and I'm not hunting on his land this your. So hopefully I'll get my deer. I really liked everything you said this are some things I have been trying to tell my buddy but he won't linsten. There's a lot of good info here. I hope that within the next 12 hrs I can reply on here saying next your tips got me a deer..
I have a question. The first three days of
Opening season I saw three 10 point bucks and ever since in the same general area I have not seen them ever again. Why I's that? Will they come back in the rut?
For better accuracy you should hold gun tight to your shoulder lean into it and relase half your breath slowly then hold the rest in and slowly curl ur finger to pull the trigger . Alot of people have the common misconseption that a quick pull on the trigger is better but in all actuality its better to pull slowly so u dont jerk your gun . Ive been hunting scince i was 12 i am now 17 and ive gotten a total of 13 dear spined 10 of them and the others were lung shots . I dont aim for the heart cuz thats the best part of the deer . Well that and the backstraps
im 17 and iv been liveing by the same ideas and i can say that it works for me, this year i got 3 deer bow hunting a 4 gun hunting but i have been geting pics of big buck moveing at all times of the day, so i sat all day for a good part of the seson and never saw him, eny ideas so i can get him i the late season?
im also 17 this is my first year hunting on my own since my dad passed. i strictly bowhunt and two days ago harvested a nice non typical 11! the trick? i watched this buck move back and forth through a pasture i knew his pattern but he never got close enough for a shot! the next day i set up farther down the pasture where he hops the fence and WAM! he's on the ground! best advice i guess is you have to find out where these deer are comin from and what they are heading to, once you find that your odds will greatly increase! good luck to you all!
yoi aint gotta do all that crap just to kill a buck. i sit in my truck and hunt( sometimes in a stand) and i - along with my dad - have killed many a buck in this way.
4- shoot if you see one
9 times out of 10 you will see one. we have bucks bedding down in our dried up pond and i have shot many large bucks down there.
anyone with enough land can set up food plots and attract the deer to you.
(or you can drive down dirt roads with the gun hanging out the window and hope you might see one:)
This is for prettygirl n huntin from a vehicle is illegal I hunt for meat myself n when I 16 someone poached a very nice buck off of my grandfathers land n I almost got in trouble for it. The conservation officer said I shot it n it wasn't big enough now since that's happened I now buy a buck tag for that reason because people like u take it away from the guys that actually do it the legal way n it's bullcrap wat u r n have been doin. Thank u guys that hunt legally.
That's wrong in everyway don't drive n hunt whomever taught u was crazy and shouldn't hunt it's not legal hope u get caught n lose your privileges forever. Leave it to the real hunters men and women who do the right and legal methods to shoot or take a deer.
Yeah. its illegal in Georgia also huge fine if caught Im 29 & I shoot with a bow and a crossbow i hunt in a field beside our house and my fiance hunts behind the house in pine thickets, its awesome I have several stands but for some reason I find it more heart pounding and challenging to hunt on the ground no blinds just blending in. my only issue is we have a lot of oak trees and the squirrels run crazy and run me crazy.
That's why there is no deer around where I hunt. Everyone around here poaches and hunts from the road cuz they are too lazy to get out of their truck. I'm 17 and I know that this isn't right. I feel much better when I get a nice buck and its legal anyways. I could understand someone that's handicap or too old to really get out there and walk but if your able to then you should, you will feel much better about your kill in the long run when your tellin the story to everybody. These are very good tips by the way and by using these tips this year and walking where no one else would go way up at the top of the mountain I killed a 140 class 9 pointer here in VA on public land. Thanks for the tips! I hope to get more bucks this season!
When looking for land that has very little pressure from other hunters, a good set of chest waders can be your best friend through the hunting season.
a few tips that has been very useful to me are: use googlemaps in the aerial/satellite view mode of your hunting area, wheather it be private or public land. This is the absolute best way to do your initial scouting because it allows you to see all off the wooded areas, open areas, water sources, natural "funnels/pinchpoints," etc etc. Its best to even print off a copy of this satellite map for continuous studying of your hunting area plotting your stand locations on it. Next, scout several stand locations so you have many options based on different winds and current deer movement patterns. Take a pen and notepad with you while scouting and make detailed notes on all newly discovered stand sites (ie; north seeking arrow, all pertinent info like trails/intersections, wooded areas, open areas, also info on the exact tree you picked out (is it best suited for a climbing or lock-on stand). You ALWAYS need to have a compass on you (scouting or hunting), this allows you to put your north seeking arrow on your notepad sketch. This is important for two reasons; to know what wind direction would best allow you to hunt this stand and what wind direction would make that stand a "no-go" in which case you select another of your sites that IS suited for current wind directions. Second reason is because you want to know what stand sites are best suited for morning hunts and which are best for evening hunts. In a perfect world you alwsys want the sun at your back and wind in your face. an ol' indian saying. Also try to plan multiple routes to your stands, do not walk in from the most likely direction/area you expect to see deer.
Lastly buy the absolute best equipment you can afford, especially scope, and PRACTICE OFTEN, know where your gun is hitting. Keep scope on lowest power setting, you can always crank it up if you see one farther away. NEVER hunt in a tree stand without a safety harness on, you owe that to your family. it doesnt always happen to the OTHER guy. Good Luck.
First time deer hunter here. I found your info interesting. I will try to use all of it this season.
Hunting deer will sure be different than hunting Hajjis. Good thing is Deer don't shoot back.
I've come across so many bucks and older does. While timing my mountain bike. I'd come around a corner flying. And BAM! There one would be.
Damn ne'er hitting it.
I got the ok to hunt on private land. On the side of a rocky hill. Overlooking an oak tree grove.
Saw boat loads of deer tracks. And one big ass set of moose tracks. It's got a nice creek close by
Too. I have a decent tree stand but prefer a ground blind. It would bee a perfect sniper position if I was in DOUCHEBAGISTAN. I'll be out there for bow, black powder and rifle seasons.
If y'all have any other advice. Please give me a holler on FB. John wrench Morrissey
Thanks for your comment Anonymous. Don't get to upset with "Prettygirl" I think she is an animal rights activist. Sometimes these people come to websites like this one and post illegal things just to get rise out of hunters. Or worse, hope someone would say "cool i have to try that" so they can go back to their people and spout off that hunters commit illegal offenses.
A simple and easy way to prevent someone from stealing your tree stand is to buy Master Lock trailer Hitch pin locks. Use one in each section of your ladder, instead of the clip pin. Now the sections are locked together all the way to the top. Kind of hard to carry out a fully assembled 20 foot tall tree stand!
To all deer hunters out there give up your trail camera and go back to basic hunting iv had a lot more deer visit my spot without them it teaches you to pay more attention to your spot instead of looking at pictures you're looking at the ground and at the trees and at every gap between for sign of activitydoing this I can hunt a deer by his prints and his preferred travel routes and if you lose blood finding them is easy by tracking their prints and knowing how they like to travel from area to area and a tip on prints don't look just for DuClaw marks a buck has rounded hoofs at the tips and a doe has sharp points a good way to remember is girls get their nails done long and pointy if you don't believe me look at you next deer so give up cams and you will greatly increase you hunting knowledge
hi, im 16 and i am wondering how to get a better morning hunt. What I do now is walk into my stand that is by a agriculture field and there are deer in that all night long by camera pictures. when I get there, there are deer in the field and there is no other way of getting to that spot. It is a good spot and I hate scaring deer day after day due to open walking through fields. Any tips, ever sat all night in a stand and hunted mornings? what can I do to get a better morning hunt.
Nice and very helpful information i have got from your post. Even your whole blog is full of interesting information which is the great sign of a great blogger.
Try using a bike to reach your stand and not leaving human scent on the ground. You don't make as much noise and don't sweat as much in hot weather. Ihave to bikes. I will leave one at hunting land and have one to take with me to different locations, if needed.
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