Komondor

A large, muscular breed, the Komondor is mostly known for its unusually dense, protective coat of heavy white cords (which make him look like a giant mop!) that form naturally as the breed matures in age. The coat serves to cover vulnerable body parts in case of attack, helps him blend in with his flock and protects him from weather extremes. While he has been a working dog in Hungary for ten centuries, he is also found in the show and obedience rings in the United States.

Personality: Dignified, brave, protective, steadfastly loyal
Energy Level: Somewhat Active; A Kom without a big, fenced-in area to patrol will need two or three good walks daily
Good with Children: Better with Older Children
Good with other Dogs: Not Recommended
Shedding: Seasonal
Grooming: Daily
Trainability: Responds Well
Height: 27.5 minimum inches (male), 25.5 minimum inches (female)
Weight: 100 pounds or more (male), 80 pounds or more (female)
Life Expectancy: 10-12 years
Barking Level: Barks When Necessary

meet theKomondor

Did you know?

The plural of Komondor is Komondorok.

How similar

Breed History

The Komondor was officially recognized by the AKC.

Learn more about the Komondor breed standard.

at aGlance

Energy & Size

AKC Dog Ranking

Personality

Brave
Dignified
Loyal

Dignified, brave, protective, steadfastly loyal

NATIONAL BREED CLUB

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General Appearance

The Komondor is characterized by imposing strength, dignity, courageous demeanor, and pleasing conformation. He is a large, muscular dog with plenty of bone and substance, covered with an unusual, heavy coat of white cords. The working Komondor lives during the greater part of the year in the open, and his coat serves to help him blend in with his flock and to protect him from extremes of weather and beasts of prey.

The head is large. The length of the head from occiput to tip of nose is approximately two-fifths the height of the dog at the withers. The skin around the eyes and on the muzzle is dark.

Characterized by a powerful, deep chest, which is muscular and proportionately wide. The breast is broad and well-muscled. The belly is somewhat drawn up at the rear. The rump is wide, muscular, and slopes slightly towards the root of the tail.

Forequarters

Shoulders are well laid back. Forelegs straight, well-boned, and muscular. Viewed from any side, the legs are like vertical columns. The upper arms are carried close to the body, without loose elbows.

Characteristic of the breed is the dense, protective coat. The puppy coat is relatively soft, but it shows a tendency to fall into cord-like curls. The young adult coat, or intermediate coat, consists of very short cords next to the skin which may be obscured by the sometimes lumpy looking fluff on the outer ends of the cords. The mature coat consists of a dense, soft, woolly undercoat much like the puppy coat, and a coarser outer coat that is wavy or curly. The coarser hairs of the outer coat trap the softer undercoat, forming permanent, strong cords that are felt-like to the touch. A grown dog is entirely covered with a heavy coat of these tassel-like cords, which form naturally. It must be remembered that the length of the Komondor's coat is a function of age, and a younger dog must never be penalized for having a shorter coat.

Hindquarters

The steely, strong bone structure is covered with highly-developed muscles. The legs are straight as viewed from the rear. Stifles are well-bent. Rear dewclaws must be removed.

KomondorCare

Good nutrition for the Komondorok is very important from puppyhood to his senior years.

Caring for the Komondor coat takes quite a bit of time and effort.

Somewhat Active; A Kom without a big, fenced-in area to patrol will need two or three good walks daily.

Komondor

His appearance might make you think he was developed to mop floors, but the Komondor has a long and noble heritage as a flock-guarding dog breed in his native Hungary. He still retains a strong protective instinct and will defend his family and property with his life.

See all Komondor characteristics below!

Additional articles you will be interested in:

Breed Characteristics:

Contrary to popular belief, small size doesn't necessarily an apartment dog make — plenty of small dogs are too high-energy and yappy for life in a high-rise. Being quiet, low energy, fairly calm indoors, and polite with the other residents, are all good qualities in an apartment dog.

Some dogs are simply easier than others: they take to training better and are fairly easygoing. They're also resilient enough to bounce back from your mistakes or inconsistencies. Dogs who are highly sensitive, independent thinking, or assertive may be harder for a first-time owner to manage. You'll get your best match if you take your dog-owning experience into account as you choose your new pooch.

Some dogs will let a stern reprimand roll off their backs, while others take even a dirty look to heart. Low-sensitivity dogs, also called "easygoing," "tolerant," "resilient," and even "thick-skinned," can better handle a noisy, chaotic household, a louder or more assertive owner, and an inconsistent or variable routine. Do you have young kids, throw lots of dinner parties, play in a garage band, or lead a hectic life? Go with a low-sensitivity dog.

Some breeds bond very closely with their family and are more prone to worry or even panic when left alone by their owner. An anxious dog can be very destructive, barking, whining, chewing, and otherwise causing mayhem. These breeds do best when a family member is home during the day or if you can take the dog to work.

Breeds with very short coats and little or no undercoat or body fat, such as Greyhounds, are vulnerable to the cold. Dogs with a low cold tolerance need to live inside in cool climates and should have a jacket or sweater for chilly walks.

Dogs with thick, double coats are more vulnerable to overheating. So are breeds with short noses, like Bulldogs or Pugs, since they can't pant as well to cool themselves off. If you want a heat-sensitive breed, the dog will need to stay indoors with you on warm or humid days, and you'll need to be extra cautious about exercising your dog in the heat.

Some breeds are independent and aloof, even if they've been raised by the same person since puppyhood; others bond closely to one person and are indifferent to everyone else; and some shower the whole family with affection. Breed isn't the only factor that goes into affection levels; dogs who were raised inside a home with people around feel more comfortable with humans and bond more easily.

Being gentle with children, sturdy enough to handle the heavy-handed pets and hugs they can dish out, and having a blasé attitude toward running, screaming children are all traits that make a kid-friendly dog. You may be surprised by who's on that list: Fierce-looking Boxers are considered good with children, as are American Staffordshire Terriers (aka pit bulls). Small, delicate, and potentially snappy dogs such as Chihuahuas aren't so family-friendly.

**All dogs are individuals. Our ratings are generalizations, and they're not a guarantee of how any breed or individual dog will behave. Dogs from any breed can be good with children based on their past experiences, training on how to get along with kids, and personality. No matter what the breed or breed type, all dogs have strong jaws, sharp pointy teeth, and may bite in stressful circumstances. Young children and dogs of any breed should always be supervised by an adult and never left alone together, period.

Friendliness toward dogs and friendliness toward humans are two completely different things. Some dogs may attack or try to dominate other dogs even if they're love-bugs with people; others would rather play than fight; and some will turn tail and run. Breed isn't the only factor; dogs who lived with their littermates and mother until at least 6 to 8 weeks of age, and who spent lots of time playing with other dogs during puppyhood, are more likely to have good canine social skills.

Stranger-friendly dogs will greet guests with a wagging tail and a nuzzle; others are shy, indifferent, or even aggressive. However, no matter what the breed, a dog who was exposed to lots of different types, ages, sizes, and shapes of people as a puppy will respond better to strangers as an adult.

If you're going to share your home with a dog, you'll need to deal with some level of dog hair on your clothes and in your house. However, shedding does vary greatly among the breeds: Some dogs shed year-round, some "blow" seasonally -- produce a snowstorm of loose hair -- some do both, and some shed hardly at all. If you're a neatnik you'll need to either pick a low-shedding breed, or relax your standards.

Drool-prone dogs may drape ropes of slobber on your arm and leave big, wet spots on your clothes when they come over to say hello. If you've got a laid-back attitude toward slobber, fine; but if you're a neatnik, you may want to choose a dog who rates low in the drool department.

Some breeds are brush-and-go dogs; others require regular bathing, clipping, and other grooming just to stay clean and healthy. Consider whether you have the time and patience for a dog that needs a lot of grooming, or the money to pay someone else to do it.

Due to poor breeding practices, some breeds are prone to certain genetic health problems, such as hip dysplasia. This doesn't mean that every dog of that breed will develop those diseases; it just means that they're at an increased risk. If you're buying a puppy, it's a good idea to find out which genetic illnesses are common to the breed you're interested in, so you can ask the breeder about the physical health of your potential pup's parents and other relatives.

Some breeds have hearty appetites and tend to put on weight easily. As in humans, being overweight can cause health problems in dogs. If you pick a breed that's prone to packing on pounds, you'll need to limit treats, make sure he gets enough exercise, and measure out his daily kibble in regular meals rather than leaving food out all the time.

Dogs come in all sizes, from the world's smallest pooch, the Chihuahua, to the towering Great Dane, how much space a dog takes up is a key factor in deciding if he is compatible with you and your living space. Large dog breeds might seem overpowering and intimidating but some of them are incredibly sweet! Take a look and find the right large dog for you!

Easy to train dogs are more adept at forming an association between a prompt (such as the word "sit"), an action (sitting), and a consequence (getting a treat) very quickly. Other dogs need more time, patience, and repetition during training. Many breeds are intelligent but approach training with a "What's in it for me?" attitude, in which case you'll need to use rewards and games to teach them to want to comply with your requests.

Dogs who were bred for jobs that require decision making, intelligence, and concentration, such as herding livestock, need to exercise their brains, just as dogs who were bred to run all day need to exercise their bodies. If they don't get the mental stimulation they need, they'll make their own work -- usually with projects you won't like, such as digging and chewing. Obedience training and interactive dog toys are good ways to give a dog a brain workout, as are dog sports and careers, such as agility and search and rescue.

Common in most breeds during puppyhood and in retriever breeds at all ages, mouthiness means a tendency to nip, chew, and play-bite (a soft, fairly painless bite that doesn't puncture the skin). Mouthy dogs are more likely to use their mouths to hold or "herd" their human family members, and they need training to learn that it's fine to gnaw on chew toys, but not on people. Mouthy breeds tend to really enjoy a game of fetch, as well as a good chew on a chew toy that's been stuffed with kibble and treats.

Some breeds sound off more often than others. When choosing a breed, think about how the dog vocalizes — with barks or howls — and how often. If you're considering a hound, would you find their trademark howls musical or maddening? If you're considering a watchdog, will a city full of suspicious "strangers" put him on permanent alert? Will the local wildlife literally drive your dog wild? Do you live in housing with noise restrictions? Do you have neighbors nearby?

Some breeds are more free-spirited than others. Nordic dogs such as Siberian Huskies were bred to range long distances, and given the chance, they'll take off after anything that catches their interest. And many hounds simply must follow their noses, or that bunny that just ran across the path, even if it means leaving you behind.

High-energy dogs are always ready and waiting for action. Originally bred to perform a canine job of some sort, such as retrieving game for hunters or herding livestock, they have the stamina to put in a full workday. They need a significant amount of exercise and mental stimulation, and they're more likely to spend time jumping, playing, and investigating any new sights and smells. Low-energy dogs are the canine equivalent of a couch potato, content to doze the day away. When picking a breed, consider your own activity level and lifestyle, and think about whether you'll find a frisky, energetic dog invigorating or annoying.

A vigorous dog may or may not be high-energy, but everything he does, he does with vigor: he strains on the leash (until you train him not to), tries to plow through obstacles, and even eats and drinks with great big gulps. These dynamos need lots of training to learn good manners, and may not be the best fit for a home with young kids or someone who's elderly or frail. A low-vigor dog, on the other hand, has a more subdued approach to life.

Some breeds do fine with a slow evening stroll around the block. Others need daily, vigorous exercise -- especially those that were originally bred for physically demanding jobs, such as herding or hunting. Without enough exercise, these breeds may put on weight and vent their pent-up energy in ways you don't like, such as barking, chewing, and digging. Breeds that need a lot of exercise are good for outdoorsy, active people, or those interested in training their dog to compete in a high-energy dog sport, such as agility.

Some dogs are perpetual puppies -- always begging for a game -- while others are more serious and sedate. Although a playful pup sounds endearing, consider how many games of fetch or tag you want to play each day, and whether you have kids or other dogs who can stand in as playmates for the dog.

Vital Stats:

Height: 2 feet, 1 inch to 2 feet, 3 inches tall at the shoulder

Weight: 80 to 100 pounds

Life Span: 10 to 12 years

The Komondor may look like a mop on four legs, but beneath all that hair, there's a big dog with a big personality. Originally bred to guard livestock — a job he still excels at — the Komondor is intelligent, independent, and highly protective. In fact, he enjoys nothing more than watching over his family.

This may pose a couple of problems. For one, it can be unnerving to have a dog sit and stare at you as you go about your day. For another, the Komondor's protective instincts and suspicion of strangers can lead to trouble (and lawsuits) if your dog attacks someone he perceives as a threat.

Obviously, this dog comes with responsibilities. You need to be a confident leader to win the respect of your Komondor. The meek, and the inexperienced dog owner, need not apply. You'll have to socialize your Komondor well — exposing him to lots of different people, situations, and other animals — from an early age so he knows how to behave around them. And you'll have to take pains to introduce your Komondor to people who are permitted in your home. Once a Komondor accepts the newcomer, he'll always remember him and treat him as a member of his flock, one more person to watch over.

You'll also need to be careful around other dogs. Komondorok can be aggressive toward dogs they don't know, and some aren't capable of sharing a home with another canine, no matter how hard you to try to make everyone get along. However, they may have excellent relations with cats and livestock.

Nor is the Komondor's coat care an easy proposition. Their trademark cords don't need brushing, but they must be kept free of parasites and dirt. And if it gets damp, the Komondor's coat can develop an unpleasant mildew odor.

True to his working dog heritage, the Komondor is a smart cookie who learns quickly with the right trainer — that is, one who engages his mind and works with his independent nature rather than against it. With repetitive training techniques, he gets bored. The Komondor will ignore commands that seem unnecessary, so pick your battles.

The Komondor comes with lots of benefits in addition to the responsibilities. This loyal breed will happily spend his days under or on your feet, serving as companion, friend, and guardian.

Highlights

Komondor are rare, but unethical backyard breeders and puppy mills do breed them. It's important to find a good breeder to make sure you don't get a puppy who will develop health or behavior problems.
Although an apartment or condo is not the ideal living space for a Komondor, he can adjust to that lifestyle if he receives daily exercise and is trained not to bark excessively.
This strong-willed dog needs a confident owner who can provide leadership the Komondor will respect. This isn't a good choice for the first-time dog owner.
Although Komondor shouldn't be brushed, their coat needs extensive care to keep its white color and to stay free of dirt, debris, and parasites. If you want your Komondor's coat to stay clean, he should sleep indoors.
Komondor are barkers and suspicious of most things they see or hear. The breed is an excellent watch dog for both home and livestock and was originally developed for this role.
Komondor can be aggressive to other dogs.
Komondor aren't high-energy, and are happy just watching and following you around the house. But they still need daily exercise of at least a few walks per day to keep them healthy and at their proper weight.
A high fence is required to prevent the Komondor from attempting to expand his territory, a common habit of guard dogs.
The Komondor is happiest when he's working. He's ideal for guarding livestock, but any job will give him the mental exercise he needs.
Although Komondor historically spent their time outside protecting the flock, they do need time inside with their family. Like any dog, a Komondor can become aggressive, fearful, or aloof when deprived of human company.

The earliest written description of the Komondor dates back to the 16th century, but the breed was around long before that, guarding livestock herds in his native Hungary. The Komondor is believed to be descended from the Russian Owtcharka, another breed of sheepdog.

Komondor had a special advantage in their job. With their white, corded coats, they closely resembled their flocks — large sheep with white, curly wool — and were able to mingle with them unseen by predators until it was too late.

As with many breeds, World War II left the Komondor on the brink of extinction. After the war, fanciers tried to return the breed to its original numbers, but it remained rare and largely unknown. The American Kennel Club recognized the breed in 1937, but there were few Komondor outside Hungary until after 1962.

The Komondor ranks 144th in popularity among the 157 breeds and varieties recognized by the American Kennel Club. He still serves as a livestock guardian, but he's now known as a companion dog as well.

The Komondor male stands 27.5 inches tall and up and weighs 100 or more pounds; a female is 25.5 tall and weighs 80 or more pounds.

Personality

Komondor puppies take a long time to reach maturity — generally three years or so — but when they do, they have a calm, devoted personality. They're intelligent, independent, and fiercely protective, willing to rise to the challenge of defending home and family. Komondor are wary of strangers and can be aggressive to other dogs.

These traits, plus their large size, make them a bad match for first-time or timid owners.

Komondor need early and extensive socialization — exposure to many different people, sights, sounds, and experiences — starting in early puppyhood. Enrolling your Komondor in a puppy kindergarten class is a great start. Keep up his socialization by continually exposing him to lots of different people. Invite visitors over regularly and take him along on outings and walks.

Komondor are generally healthy, but like all breeds, they can be subject to certain health conditions. Not all Komondor will get any or all of these diseases, but it's important to be aware of them if you're considering this breed.

If you're buying a puppy, find a good breeder who will show you health clearances for both your puppy's parents. Health clearances prove that a dog's been tested for and cleared of a particular condition.

In Komondor, you should expect to see health clearances from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals or PennHIP clearances for hips.

Because some health problems don't appear until a dog reaches full maturity, health clearances aren't issued to dogs younger than two years old. Look for a breeder who doesn't breed her dogs until they're two or three years old.

Hip Dysplasia: This degenerative disease occurs when the hip joint is weakened due to abnormal growth and development and is found in many breeds of dogs.
Entropion: This defect, which is usually obvious by six months of age, causes the eyelid to roll inward, irritating or injuring the eyeball. One or both eyes can be affected. If your Komondor has entropion, you may notice him rubbing at his eyes. The condition can be corrected surgically when the dog reaches maturity.
Gastric Torsion (Bloat): Bloat is caused by the sudden influx of gas and air in the stomach. This causes the stomach to distend and twist and can cause death in a dog if it is not treated.

When he's young, this intelligent breed is surprisingly easy to train. That ease is often short lived, however, and turns into frustration when the apt pupil turns into a stubborn student. Komondor are independent as well as smart.

The key to training a Komondor is not force or repetition, but making training fun for both owner and dog. The Komondor's ability to think for himself will lead him to decide that some commands are worth learning, some aren't worth repeating, and some are okay only once in a while. He becomes bored easily, so make each training session different.

Komondor have moderate exercise needs and are satisfied with two or three short walks daily or playtime in the yard. They need a securely fenced yard to help them define their territory and, because they're so protective, to prevent other people and animals from entering that territory.

Recommended daily amount: 3 to 4 cups of a high-quality dog food daily, divided into two meals.

How much your adult dog eats depends on his size, age, build, metabolism, and activity level. Dogs are individuals, just like people, and they don't all need the same amount of food. It almost goes without saying that a highly active dog will need more than a couch potato dog. The quality of dog food you buy also makes a difference — the better the dog food, the further it will go toward nourishing your dog and the less you'll need to shake into your dog's bowl.

Komondor are prone to bloat, a potentially life-threatening condition. To help prevent bloat, feed two or three small meals daily rather than one large meal.

To keep a Komondor's weight at a normal level, feed him at specific times each day rather than leaving food out all the time. Measure food carefully, and cut back if it looks like he's putting on the pounds. He should have a waist when you look down at him, and you should be able to feel his ribs but not see them. If they're buried beneath rolls of fat, he needs to go on a diet. Dole out treats sparingly. Your Komondor will be just as happy to get a fingernail-sized training treat as a bigger biscuit.

Coat Color And Grooming

The Komondor has a wonderfully unique coat. During puppyhood, he has soft curls that grow heavy as he matures, developing into long, feltlike cords that resemble the strands of a mop. The undercoat is soft and woolly, the topcoat coarse. Puppies have a cream or buff shading to their coats, but this color fades to white as they grow up.

The Komondor coat doesn't need brushing, but it's definitely not maintenance-free. When the cords begin forming at eight to 12 months of age — a process in which the soft undercoat is trapped by the topcoat — it's essential to keep the hair clean and dry so it doesn't get dirty and discolored. The cords may not completely form until the dog is 2 years old.

The cords must be separated regularly to prevent matting and to remove debris or dirt. Trimming around the mouth is suggested to avoid staining from food. And bathing and drying a Komondor is an all-day affair. Floor fans are excellent for post-bath drying, and many Komondorok will laze around in front of a fan. The coat can be trimmed short for ease of maintenance, although this takes away from the breed's distinctive appearance.

Other grooming needs include dental hygiene and nail care. Brush your Komondor's teeth at least two or three times a week to remove tartar buildup and the accompanying bacteria. Daily is better. Trim his nails once or twice a month, as needed. If you can hear the nail clicking on the floor, they're too long. Short nails keep the feet in good condition and won't scratch your legs when your Komondor jumps up to greet you.

Start getting your Komondor used to being examined when he's a puppy. Handle his paws frequently — dogs are touchy about their feet — and look inside his mouth and ears. Make grooming a positive experience filled with praise and rewards, and you'll lay the groundwork for easy veterinary exams and other handling when he's an adult.

Children And Other Pets

Komondor can be good companions to children in their own family, but may have difficulty accepting visiting children. They're best suited to homes with older children who understand how to interact with dogs. Always supervise Komondor when they're with children, and never leave them alone with young children. They're livestock guardians, not babysitters.

Even when exposed to them often, Komondor are generally not fond of other dogs. They do best in a single-dog home but can learn to get along with cats. They're always pleased to have livestock to guard. That is, after all, their purpose in life.

Rescue Groups

Sometimes Komondorok are acquired without any clear understanding of what goes into owning one, and these dogs may end up in the care of rescue groups, in need of adoption or fostering. Contact rescue organizations for more information about available dogs and adoption requirements.

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Før du køber hund

Anskaffelse af hund bør planlægges nøje, hvis både du og hunden skal være tilfredse med jeres samliv. Nedenfor finder du en række gode råd om de overvejelser, som du bør gøre dig, før du køber hund.

Der er mange glæder og positive sider ved at anskaffe sig en hund, men der medfølger også en hel del arbejde og udgifter i forbindelse med pasning, pleje og træning af hunden. Det er meget vigtigt, at man sætter sig grundigt ind i, hvad det kræver at have en labradoodle. Man skal gøre sig klart, hvad man selv kan tilbyde hunden, og det er vigtigt, at man vælger en størrelse, der passer til familien og dens livsstil. Det er et stort ansvar at have hund, og man skal huske på, at hunden, med lidt held, lever i 8-14 år.

Alt for mange hunde må hvert år betale prisen for menneskets impulshandlinger og dårlige beslutninger. De heldige hunde bliver omplaceret eller havner på internater. De uheldige forbliver ulykkelige i hjemmet eller må lade livet hos dyrlægen. Spørg derfor altid dig selv, om du kan give en labradoodle / hund et godt liv, og om det at have en labradoodle er noget for dig? Hvis svaret er JA, så skal du bl.a. også gøre dig overvejelser om størrelse og køn..

DLK vil gerne hjælpe dig til at træffe det rette valg. Overvejer du at købe en labradoodle - eller kender du nogen der gør - så læs disse gode råd om køb af hund, Før du køber din labradoodle!

Som udgangspunkt er vi meget optimistiske, når vi skal vurdere vores egne evner. Tænk blot på planerne om opsparingen, slankekuren m.m. Når du vurderer den tid og energi, du planlægger at bruge på hunden, er det derfor en god idé at trække ca. 20 % fra. Er du førstegangs hundekøber, så snak med andre der har eb labradoodle. Før du anskaffer dig en labradoodle bør du gøre dig følgende overvejelser:

Alle hunde, uanset race, har brug for at være sammen med dig for at trives. Hunden nedstammer fra ulven, der lever i flok og gennem samarbejde mellem flokkens medlemmer er i stand til at nedlægge byttedyr, som er større end den selv. Ulvene i en flok er derfor afhængige af hinanden, og der knyttes stærke bånd mellem dem. Vore hunde har også denne tilbøjelighed til at knytte bånd til medlemmerne i den flok, som de er en del af - altså vores familie.

En hund bør ikke være alene mere end 5 timer dagligt. Hunden skal udover daglig motion, aktiveres og trænes for at blive mentalt træt og tilfreds. Dette er MEGET vigtigt for labradoodlen- hvis du ikke kan det, er en labradoodle ikke noget for dig.Endelig skal du påregne tid til at børste og soignere hunden . Alt i alt skal du kunne afsætte minimum 1 1/2 time dagligt til beskæftigelse af hunden - udover den tid, hvor du på anden måde er sammen med hunden.En labradoodle skal være et nyt familie medlem - så trives den bedst. Den egner sig ikke til at gå i hundegård- nej den SKAL være sammen med sin familie.

En labradoodle ved ikke på forhånd, hvad du forventer dig af den. Det skal du lære den. Du må derfor være indstillet på at bruge en hel del tid på at opdrage med positiv træning og træne med hunden sammen med andre hunde og gå til hvalpe socialisering og senrer lydighed eller aqility eller anden form for både mental og fysisk træning.. Dette gælder både, hvis du anskaffer dig en voksen hund, og hvis du køber en hvalp. Selvom du har erfaring med hunde, bør du gå til hundetræning med den - specielt hvis du anskaffer en hvalp. På et hvalpehold lærer du og hunden at samarbejde om nogle grundlæggende lydighedsøvelser, og hunden lærer også at omgås andre hunde samt fremmede mennesker.

En labradoodle trives bedst med en nogenlunde regelmæssig tilværelse. Lange arbejdsdage, mange flytninger, skiftende arbejdstider, rejseaktiviteter, pasningsordninger m.v. kan godt gøre hunden urolig og stresset. Og hvis du har børn - er det VIGTIGT at du lærer barn/børn at omgåes hunden og accepterer denog at de også lader den hvile eller få ro når den er gået hen til dens egen "seng".Læs længere ned afsnit børn og hund.

Det koster at have hund - og her tænkes ikke på hvalpens pris. Anskaffelsesprisen er nemlig forbavsende lille, når man tænker på hvad det koster at holde hund i 10-15 år. Man skal påregne udgifter til mad, hundeudstyr, vaccinationer, loppe- og ormemidler, regelmæssige og uventede dyrlægebesøg, træning, pelspleje, pensionsophold, diverse forsikringer m.v. Så synes man, at prisen på en hund lyder afskrækkende, bør man overveje, hvorvidt man overhovedet har råd til at holde hund. Tegn altid en hundsyge forsikring til din hvalp.

Hvis du bor i lejlighed, skal du tænke på, at hunden skal luftes flere gange hver dag uanset vejret - dels fordi den skal ud at besørge, dels fordi den har behov for motion og mental stimulering. Selvom du bor i hus og derfor kan lukke hunden ud i haven, når den skal besørge, er det nødvendigt at gå tur med hunden mindst 1-2 timer hver dag. Det er begrænset hvor megen motion, hunden kan få ved at gå alene rundt ude i haven. Desuden lærer den hurtigt alle lugtene i haven at kende. Hunde har behov for nye oplevelser. Det vil den kun få, hvis den kommer ud at gå steder, hvor der er fremmede lugte det er for den, som at læse "avisen".

Alle hunde reagerer på lyde og synsindtryk, men nogle hunderacer gør mere end andre. Hvis du bor i et boligkompleks, bør du tage hensyn til dette ved valget at race, så hunden ikke bliver til gene for naboerne. Man kan lære en hund at tie stille på kommando, men det er ofte svært og det hjælper ikke, hvis hunden gør, når den er alene. Man bør under ingen omstændigheder fare op og skælde ud, hvis hunden gør, da det kun vil gøre problemet værre.

Hvis du ikke bor i egen bolig, skal du sikre dig, at det er tilladt at holde hund i ejendommen. I almennyttigt boligbyggeri vil det normalt være boligselskabet eller afdelingsbestyrelsen, der bestemmer reglerne for hold af husdyr. I andels- og ejerboliger vil det være beboerforeningen, der bestemmer reglerne.

Mange hunde bliver anskaffet af hensyn til børnene i familien. Børnene ønsker brændende en hund og lover, at de nok skal passe den og gå tur med den. Men når nyhedens interesse fortager sig, overgår forpligtelserne ofte til forældrene. Ansvar for dyr er noget, børn skal lære, og det skal ske under de voksnes opsyn. Forvent aldrig, at et barn skal holdes ansvarligt for et dyr - ej heller en hund. Valg af hund, pasning og pleje er derfor altid en voksens ansvar.

Det kan dog være meget berigende for børn at vokse op sammen med en hund, idet børn kan lære at omgås et andet levende væsen med forståelse, respekt og omsorg. Hvis man får en labradoodle i hjemmet, er det vigtigt at både børn og hund lærer nogle grundregler om, hvad man må og ikke må. Har man et godt regelsæt for omgang med hunden, er der stor sandsynlighed for at udfaldet bliver positivt. Regelsættet skal være på plads, før hunden ankommer til hjemmet.

I hundebøger står der ofte, at den pågældende race er "børnevenlig". Alle racer er som udgangspunkt "børnevenlige", såfremt de tilvænnes og får gode oplevelser med børn fra hvalpestadiet. For at en hund skal blive glad og tryg ved både fremmede børn og voksne, er det derfor vigtigt at den præges og socialiseres som hvalp . Husk også på, at man aldrig må lade mindre børn og hunde være alene sammen.

Det er en udbredt misforståelse, at man undgå at hunden får alene-hjemme problemer, hvis man anskaffer sig to hunde, der kan holde hinanden med selskab. Alene-hjemme problemer skyldes nemlig meget ofte hundens eller hundenes afhængighed af personer i familien, og kan derfor ikke afhjælpes ved, at man anskaffer sig to hunde. Hunden, eller hundene, skal gradvist tilvænnes at være alene, ellers risikerer man, at den ene eller begge hunde giver problemer, når de lades alene.

Hvis du har besluttet at anskaffe en labradoodle, skal du også gøre dig overvejelser om hvilken køn og størrelse du skal vælge.

Stadigt flere mennesker vælger en lille hund frem for en stor. Små hunde giver dog ikke færre problemer med deres adfærd end store hunde, og du bør være opmærksom på, at en lille hund har lige så stort behov for opdragelse som en stor. En stor hund kan dog alene i kraft af sin størrelse være sværere at håndtere end en lille hund. Udgifterne til foder vokser naturligvis også i takt med hundens størrelse.

Hundens størrelse bør også i nogen grad afhænge af, hvordan du bor. Hvis du bor i lejlighed og skal gå på mange trapper hver dag, er det uhensigtsmæssigt at vælge en stor labradoodle, idet det er belastende for hundens knogler og muskler at gå på trapper, før den er fysisk udviklet. - Og det er ligeledes belastende for dig at skulle bære hunden.

Hvis du ikke har bil og færdes på cykel, i tog eller bus, kan det være en fordel at købe en lille labradoodle, som må medbringes i offentlige transportmidler i byerne.

Hos de fleste racer ses en forskel mellem kønnene. Hanhunden er som regel større og stærkere end tæven. Generelt kan hanhunde optræde mere aggressivt end tæver, og de har en større tilbøjelighed til at ville "dominere" ejeren, hvis de får lov til det. Tæver kan dog også udvise aggressivitet - specielt over for andre tæver. Endvidere synes der at være en tilbøjelighed til, at tæver kan udvise mere nervøsitet end hanhunde. Både aggressionsproblemer og problemer med nervøsitet kan dog i de fleste tilfælde undgås, hvis hunden håndteres korrekt. Du skal desuden være opmærksom på, at hunhunde kommer i løbetid to gange om året (af ca. tre ugers varighed). Tæver og hanhunde kan stort set opnå de samme resultater i træningssammenhæng.Hvis du vil have en rigtig kramebamse - er det en god idet at vælge en hanhund og lade den kastrer når den er ca 8 mdr.gammel.

Der er stor forskel på størrelsen af kenneler. Nogle kenneler har tyve eller tredive hunde som skulle forbydes , det er hvad man kalder en hvalpefabrik.Andre består af en, to eller tre familiehunde.

Hvis man køber en hund, der er stambogsført i Dansk labradoodle klub, følger der en stambog med hunden. En stambog er hundens anetavle, der angiver navne og stambogsnumre på hundens forfædre i generationer. På stamtavlen kan der stå oplysninger om bl.a. forældre og bedsteforældres prøve- og udstillingsmeritter. Der stå oplysninger om hundenes sundhedstilstand - og at de har været undersøgt for bestemte arvelige lidelser og resultat fremgår af stamtavlen.

Stambogen er ikke noget garantibevis, men siger noget om hundens baggrund. Selvom de fleste opdrættere er seriøse og bestræber sig på at levere sunde og velfungerende hvalpe, er der forskel på kvaliteten hos opdrætterne. At man anskaffer sig en hvalp fra en kennel, er således ikke nogen garanti for, at man får en sund og velfungerende hvalp. Du bør derfor besøge flere forskellige opdrættere, når du skal ud at købe en hvalp. Du skal dog være opmærksom på ikke at føre smitten videre for eksempel med dine hænder og fodtøj, hvis du kommer ud til en opdrætter, hvor der er syge hunde.Køb KUN hos en avler dre har hvalpene gående så de er en del af familien og ikke går ude i en lade f.eks.

Labradoodler er fremragende jagthunde - her kommer lidt om Labrador retrievren som jo er stamfar i en eller anden generation hos Labradoodlen.Faktisk hører Puddelen også til apporterende jagthunde.

Apporterende jagthunde. Eksempelvis: Labrador retriever, Golden retriever, Cocker spaniel, Springer spaniel, Flat coated retriever, Kooikerhondje, Irish water spanielog puddlen.

Hundene i denne gruppe er robuste hunde, fremavlet til at lokalisere nedlagt bytte (oftest fuglevildt) på land og i vand, og bringe det tilbage til hundeføreren. De apporterende hunde arbejder i en relativt kort afstand fra føreren (indenfor bøssens rækkevidde).

Både retrievere og puddelen er foruden at være populære jagthunde også meget populære familiehunde. De egner sig godt hertil, fordi de generelt er venlige og omgængelige, samarbejdsvillige og lærenemme. Man skal dog respektere hundenes store behov for dagligt at bruge deres næser, finde og bære ting. Blandt retrieverne findes linier, som er fremavlet til at være lettere af bygning og meget aktive. Disse typer benævnes "Formel 1" og "Field trial". Som ikke må forveksles med labradoodlens F1 ( første generation ) Ønsker man primært at anvende hunden som familiehund,er det vigtigt at forstå hundens trang til apport og sporing og en god ide at gå til det. Labradoodlerne elsker at gå spor og appoterer.

Hvis du søger hvalpe eller har spørgsmål om labradoodlen som race, kan du rette henvendelse til her i DLK. Du kan bl.a. her på hjemmesiden se den dagsaktuel hvalpeliste eller en "opdrættervejviser". Opdrættervejviseren er enlister med opdrættere, der ønsker at annoncere salg af hvalpe eller hunde til for eksempel avlstjeneste som alle følger DLK regler.

Når du besøger en opdrætter, skal du insistere på at se moderen til den hvalp, som du er interesseret i. Hvis du ikke kan få lov til det, eller hvis du ikke kan få lov at se de forhold, som hundene lever under, bør du vælge en anden opdrætter. Hvis hvalpen ikke er den sidste, der er tilbage fra sit kuld, skal du også insistere på at se hvalpen sammen med sine kuldsøskende. Følg din ifornemmelse om hvalpen har haft en god opvækst - hvis ikke, så find en anden opdrætter der har behandlet hvalpene efter DLK's regler og etik.

Brief Update

You might have noticed a bit more activity around here as of late – I’ve also given the main page a bit of a face list. I’ve been going through some adjustments in my personal life and had to focus on that for a while but things have smoothed out a bit now.

I’m now working as a Medical Case Manager with people with HIV/AIDS and loving my new line of work. In addition I’m expecting my first child in early April! With all these changes I don’t have time to write more instructive posts; however I am still available to answer any questions you may have about natural dreading.

The ask box is open for questions, and the submit is open for you all to share your natural dreading timelines. Can’t wait to see what you send my way!

Hey there! This is a great question and I’m glad you asked because I’m sure that you are not the only one with this going on.

It’s weird how dreads work, they mature from the tips of the hair up towards the roots. Long roots are annoying and may be strange to look at, but they should knot up within the next six to eight months.

By the one year mark you should have un-dreaded roots around an inch or two long. Your hair won’t ever naturally knot up all the way to your scalp but the new growth will dread up as it grows. In the mean time, if you want to cover up the long roots try a headband, bandana, or pulling your hair back when you want your hair to look more tidy. Take a picture now and again in three months, I’m sure you will see the difference.

Thanks again for the great question!

Oh wow, that’s wonderful!

With natural method it isn’t so much touching that is an issue, but rather detangling knots that are forming. I think scrubbing at your scalp before you rinse out the baking soda step of your regimen would feel nice, help keep your scalp healthy, and wouldn’t harm your progress at all – in fact it may even help with knotting up.

Regarding your hat/tam needs. Either option is fine. Having your hair up inside a hat for a day will provide friction to help with forming knots, and having it loose will help knot up at the roots. If the hat is on the snug side you can make a loose bun and slip the hat on back to front, just make sure the bun isn’t too tight or identical every time and you’ll be fine.

I’m glad you found us here, Come back any time with more questions, I’d love an update about how your journey is going!

Baby dreads love water, gets them all tangled up in knots – especially if you massage your scalp under the water.

The main concern people have about getting dreads wet is that they hold a lot of water and washing them daily without a chance to dry out you might develop mold – not cool. Baby dreads, especially baby neglect dreads should dry out pretty quickly, but if you find your hair isn’t really getting dry between soakings then you might want to think about putting your hair up and away most of the time and just letting it soak every other day. I have full confidence you’ll figure out the best pattern for your own hair.

Bonus tip: give your babies a spray down with some salt water fifteen to twenty minutes before you get them wet to help them knot up.

the completely natural method isn’t for everyone. I would recommend looking at the twist and rip, or TnR method and giving that a try. There are plenty of videos on youtube that you can watch to see this method in action.

I’ll give you the usual tips I give most people in your position: Don’t use any products like beeswax or strange sprays. Don’t wash your hair more than two to three times a weeks otherwise you will risk mold growing in your hair. Do accept the fact that your hair will be pretty messy a lot of that first year. Just stay positive and you should be good to go!

You should take the rubber bands out of your hair because that will do more harm than good.

Don’t brush your hair for a few days to two weeks and then use the twist and rip method on the sections that are forming on their own. Another option would be to use the twist and rip method on the sections you have made with the rubber bands already but again, just make sure to take out the rubber bands.

If you just have one dread at the back of your head there is no way to keep it from getting wet while you shower. Go ahead and wash like normal and when drying your hair pay really close attention to the singular dread. You can take a small hand towel or a sham-wow or something and squeeze your dread with it and that should really help with pulling out the moisture. I’m going to assume this is a pretty new dread, so don’t worry too much because baby dreadlocks do try pretty quickly as compared to more mature dreads.

On a side note: I don’t know you, or your hair, or much of anything really but on the greasy hair front. before dreading my hair was like that too, greasy and needed to be washed daily. Typically when we wash our hair we are also washing away the natural oils our body produces to keep our hair healthy and the body adapts to your shower schedule so if you start going a few days in between washing your hair your scalp should start to adapt.

Alright so first step: take a deep breath. You’re doing great! Really you are, I love the way your started your hair it sounds like a great way to do it, and it seems like you’ve done your research. So go you!

Try not separating every day, try going three or four days between pulling your sections apart, maybe even a week if you’re feeling up to it. Too much touching might be one of the reasons your hair is falling out of the sections.

How do you sleep? I know it seems like an odd question but when you sleep your head moves about and your hair knots up more. If you are a side sleeper the sides will knot up better and faster than the back of your head. If you think it might help try putting a wool sweater over your pillow at night and try falling asleep on your back if you can. (side note: I don’t like to support the use and/or purchase of any animal products so if you want to do this either use a sweater you already have or go to a local thrift store and buy a used item)

Try ignoring the sections that have come undone for another month or so, make sure you aren’t using conditioner, and try spraying your hair with a sea salt and warm water mixture (I don’t like having that sit on my hair too long because I don’t like the feeling so I do it a few hours before I shower which should be just fine). Let it be for a month or two and if you’re still not seeing progress go ahead and try doing some light TnR work to encourage the progress. I don’t think braiding would be very helpful.

Let me know if you have any other questions! (-:

My humble tumblr shows up in a google search? Woah, that’s pretty sweet!

Your hair sounds just like mine at the four month mark. They were pretty well dreaded up but I had long strands of loose hair that would come out of the middle of the dread and just hang around.

Fear not, these will gradually go away on their own. As far as time frame though it will probably be another three or four months before there is a considerable difference. The long hairs eventually get eaten up by the dread they come from and you won’t even remember they were ever there. I still have some loose hairs like you described and my dreads will be four in September, but I hardly notice them they are so minor.

If you want to see pictures of my hair at the same stage you described just send me another message off anon and I’m happy to share with you. I just don’t want to clutter up the page with my own mug. (-:

The truly natural method would be to stop brushing your hair and allow sections to from on their own. Do do this you would need to stop brushing your hair, stop touching it and trying to untangle the knots that will form, stop using conditioner, and simply be patient. As your hair knots up more and more you can start separating the natural sections that will form in the beginning as they try and join up with other sections.

Alternatively you could allow your hair to go natural for two or three weeks and then do some light TnR method on the sections that form to help the process along.

Either way start using a residue free shampoo (I use dish soap, others like ACV or Dr. Bronners) and settle in for a messy, but enjoyable, ride!

This is all pretty general if you have more specific questions feel free to ask, or try looking into some of the online communities in my resources page. There are a lot of timelines with pictures for you to see what others have done.

First let me just say how great it is you’ve realized your mistake and want to correct it! Because that is really awesome and mature of you! =D

Just put the hook down and don’t use it you’ll be okay. Your dreads might get more frizzy than other people’s at first and that’s because of all the broken hairs inside are going to get loose and then knot back up. Overall though you should be just fine. You don’t need to do anything special for crochet hook recovery, just wash once or twice a week and keep your sections separated like everyone else and you’ll be great.

Hey! So you don’t really need any special products with dreadlocks to start them up. But when it comes to washing your dreads you wanna make sure you aren’t using something that leaves a residue.

I have a tutorial here on different washing techniques. It is a few years old now and since writing that up I have discovered the wonders of dish soap. I simply mix the soap and some tea tree oil in a small travel bottle and soap up. The dish soap cleans but leaves no residue and the tea tree oil helps your scalp.

Tips for Drying Dreadlocks

You gotta wash your hair, yes even dreadlocks need a good scrub once or twice a week. But while plenty of people have talked about what to wash with, how frequently to soap up, and even washing techniques I don’t see as much information on drying dreadlocks which is just as important as washing them.

Here are a few quick tips on drying your dreads:

1. Don’t rewash if your hair is still wet

Mold forms in your dreads when moisture is suspended in them without a chance to dry out completely. Since dreads can take anywhere from four to eight hours to dry on average it isn’t recommended that you wash them every day. Have a good two or three days with no moisture to be sure mold doesn’t set in.

2. Don’t use a blow dryer unless you no other choice

Gone are the days where you can apply liberal amounts of moisturizer or conditioner to your hair after the damaging process of blow drying and straightening and culling and whatever else we can put our hair through. All that hot hair on your dreads with no aftercare makes for unhealthy hair. Try and let your hair air dry, or lay out in the sun to dry them out, rather than blow drying your hair. It will take longer but your hair will be better off in the long run.

3. Be smart about taking a dip

Spring is here in the states and summer is well on her way, Beach season, pool season, swimming season, camp season, whatever you want to call it the time is here to take a dip. There’s nothing wrong with swimming around but if you’re going swimming every day try and put your hair up every other day if you can. Lay out in the sun for a nap and let your hair dry quickly that way.

4. Don’t put up your hair

While drying your hair don’t put it up in a pony tail or bun this just keeps the moisture in your dreads longer which is more likely to lead to dread rot and mold.

Dread Wax: Myths and Facts

Myth: Dread wax speeds up the dreading process

Fact: When you put wax on your dreads it restricts the movement of your hair. Dreadlocks are formed on all people and all in all hair types when the individual hairs knot up. With less friction because of the wax the hair is not able to knot up like it should and takes longer to mature

Myth: Wax washes right out

Fact: Wax is not water soluble so it is actually quite difficult to wash out of your hair. Have you ever put that sculpting wax or gel in your hair to make it hold or spike out? Remember how hard you had to scrub and how many times you have to wash your hair just to get it out? Well dread wax is not much different from that stuff and unlike untangled hair you don’t really have the ability to scrub at the hairs on the inside of your dreads.

If you can’t wash the wax out it just builds up and eventually leads to dread rot. Not fun.

Myth: Using wax makes the dreading process easier

Fact: Dreads are pretty easy all on their own. They don’t need products or much maintenance at all. applying wax to ever dread on your head daily or even just weekly takes up a lot of time that would be better spent on… well really anything else.

Kimhza Bremers Bodega

Den nya genussyltan mitt i stan

Det känns märkligt att vara en man med kvinna och hund – inte bara en man med hund

Ja, som alltid finns det en flod av feministiska och mansföraktande utspel att kommentera i medierna. Idag nöjer jag mig med detta lilla utryckta citat (ur Håkan Nessers sommartext i SvD)- och vi kan ju fundera varför SvD’s redaktionsmedarbetare valde just denna lilla text att lyfta fram som en inbäddad rubrik.

Min rubrik – som vänder på könen – visar kanske just hur vedervärdig den här typen av slentrianmässig misandri är?

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Brief Update

The ask box is open for questions, and the submit is open for you all to share your natural dreading timelines. Can’t wait to see what you send my way!

Hey there! This is a great question and I’m glad you asked because I’m sure that you are not the only one with this going on.

Thanks again for the great question!

Oh wow, that’s wonderful!

I’m glad you found us here, Come back any time with more questions, I’d love an update about how your journey is going!

Baby dreads love water, gets them all tangled up in knots – especially if you massage your scalp under the water.

Bonus tip: give your babies a spray down with some salt water fifteen to twenty minutes before you get them wet to help them knot up.

You should take the rubber bands out of your hair because that will do more harm than good.

Let me know if you have any other questions! (-:

My humble tumblr shows up in a google search? Woah, that’s pretty sweet!

Your hair sounds just like mine at the four month mark. They were pretty well dreaded up but I had long strands of loose hair that would come out of the middle of the dread and just hang around.

Alternatively you could allow your hair to go natural for two or three weeks and then do some light TnR method on the sections that form to help the process along.

Either way start using a residue free shampoo (I use dish soap, others like ACV or Dr. Bronners) and settle in for a messy, but enjoyable, ride!

First let me just say how great it is you’ve realized your mistake and want to correct it! Because that is really awesome and mature of you! =D

Hey! So you don’t really need any special products with dreadlocks to start them up. But when it comes to washing your dreads you wanna make sure you aren’t using something that leaves a residue.

Tips for Drying Dreadlocks

Here are a few quick tips on drying your dreads:

1. Don’t rewash if your hair is still wet

2. Don’t use a blow dryer unless you no other choice

3. Be smart about taking a dip

4. Don’t put up your hair

While drying your hair don’t put it up in a pony tail or bun this just keeps the moisture in your dreads longer which is more likely to lead to dread rot and mold.

Dread Wax: Myths and Facts

Myth: Dread wax speeds up the dreading process

Myth: Wax washes right out

If you can’t wash the wax out it just builds up and eventually leads to dread rot. Not fun.

Myth: Using wax makes the dreading process easier

Kimhza Bremers Bodega

Den nya genussyltan mitt i stan

Det känns märkligt att vara en man med kvinna och hund – inte bara en man med hund

Min rubrik – som vänder på könen – visar kanske just hur vedervärdig den här typen av slentrianmässig misandri är?

P-Q - Dog Breeds

All Purebreds and Cross Breeds

In Alphabetcal Order

Want More Search Options? Information and pictures are added on a regular basis.

Pakistani Bull Dog (Gull Dong)
Pakistani Bull Terrier (Pakistani Gull Terr)
Pakistani Mastiff (Pakisani Bully Kutta)
Pakistani Shepherd Dog (Bhagyari Kutta)
Pakistani Tazi Hound (photo needed)
Pakistani Vikhan Dog (photo needed)
Panda Shepherd
Papastzu
Paperanian
Papichon
Papigriffon
Papijack
Papillon
Papimo
Papi-poo
Papitese
Papshund
Pariah Dog
Parnell's Carolina Cur
Parson Russell Terrier
Pastor Garafiano (photo needed)
Patterdale Shepherd
Patterdale Terrier
Patterjack
Patterland Terrier
Patton Terrier
Peagle
Peek-A-Pom
Pek-A-Rat
Peka-A-West
Pekalier
Pekarin
Peke-A-Chon
Peke-A-Pap
Peke-A-Pin
Peke-A-Tese
Pekehund
Peke-Italian
Pekepoo
Pekingese
Pembroke Cocker Corgi
Pembroke Sheltie
Pembroke Welsh Corgi
Pencil-tail Feist (photo needed)
Perdiguero de Burgos
Perdiguero Navarro (photo needed)
Perro Cimarron
Perro de Pastor Mallorquin (photo needed)
Perro de Presa Canario
Perro de Presa Mallorquin
Perro Dogo Mallorquin
Perro Ratonero Andaluz
Persian Sarabi Dog
Peruvian Inca Orchid (PIO)
Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen
Petit Bleu de Gascogne
Petit Brabancon
Petit Gascon Saintongeois (photo needed)
Petite Goldendoodle
Petite Labradoodle
Pharaoh Hound
Phu Quoc Ridgeback Dog
Picardy Spaniel (photo needed)
Pineranian

Pinny-Poo
Pin-Tzu
Pit Boodle
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четверг, 24 мая 2018 г.

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Details about Dreadlock Hair Unisex Hip Hop Extensions 50cm Long 10 Individual Dreads

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Details about Dreadlock Hair Unisex Hip Hop Extensions 50cm Long 10 Individual Dreads

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Brief Update

Tips for Drying Dreadlocks

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Den nya genussyltan mitt i stan

Det känns märkligt att vara en man med kvinna och hund – inte bara en man med hund

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четверг, 24 мая 2018 г.