Der Black River Ein Hybrid mit Esprit und Eleganz (keine FCI anerkannte Rasse, aus Golden Retriever+Flat Coated

Urheber Marita Mestekemper

Datum der Rasseregistrierung 29.08.08 über den BRV- Bayrischer Rassehundeverband Kolbermoor

Allgemeines Erscheinungsbild: Ein freundlicher und aufgeweckter Hund der mittleren Größe, mit liebevollem Ausdruck, sportlich und elegant. Er zeigt sich kernig und lebhaft.

Verhalten / Charakter (Wesen) : Bestens vereint und ausgestattet mit den Eigenschaften aus Golden und Flat Coated Retriever. Die Freundlichkeit und Intelligenz, mit der Anlage rührig zu arbeiten. Seine hohe Lernbereitschaft, sein ausgeglichener Charakter und seine kinderfreundliche Art, machen den Black River zum idealen Familienhund. Aber auch im Bereich der tierbegleitenden Therapiemaßnahme im Umgang mit Gehbehinderten,- Blinden,- ADHS,- ADS,- Down- Syndrom,- Wachkoma,- sowie Multiples Sklerose und psychisch kranken Patienten, wird er als Therapie- sowie Behindertenbegleithund bereits erfolgreich eingesetzt. Der Black River apportiert sehr gerne, liebt aber auch Kopfarbeit und ist für neue Herausforderungen immer bereit. Er eignet sich auf Grund seines guten Spürsinns und Such-und Bringverhalten auch als Trümmer-und Lawinenhund, sowie bei der Sprengstoffsuche, Rettungsstaffel oder Wasserwacht. Der Black River ist ein begeisterter Schwimmer und Taucher. Der Black River eignet sich, bei entsprechender Ausbildung, auch zur Jagd nach dem Schuss .

Oberkopf, Schädel : Flach mit mittlerer Breite.

Stopp: Leichter Stopp in Augenhöhe

Gesichtsschädel / Nasenschwamm, Eine gute Größe, mit sehr gut geöffneten Nasenlöchern.

Kiefer/Zähne: Kiefer lang und kräftig mit weichem Fang.

Mit einem perfekten regelmäßigen und vollständigen

Scherengebiss. Die Zähne stehen senkrecht im Kiefer.

Augen: offen, braun bis dunkelbraun

Behang-Ohren: gut angesetzt, dicht seitlich am Kopf getragen.

Hals: Kopf gut auf dem Hals sitzend. Von guter Länge, trocken und muskulös.

Körper: Lenden: Eine zu sehr lange Lendenpartie ist unerwünscht.

Brust: Tief und ziemlich breit.

Rute: Eine gerade und gut angesetzte Rute.

Gliedmaßen: Vorderhand Vorderläufe gerade,

Ellenbogen frei an der Brust vorbei zu bewegen.

Hinterhand: Kraftvoll; die Hinterläufe sollen im Stand paralell und gerade sein.

Pfoten: Rund, geschlossen und kräftig

Gangwerk: Sehr fließend in der Bewegung und gerade. Wirkt dabei sportlich und elegant zugleich.

Haarkleid: Haar: Gute Dichte und von guter Qualität. Läufe und Rute gut befedert. Je vollständiger die Befederung ist,

desto besser kommt die Eleganz des Hundes hervor. Das Haarkleid ist selbstreinigend und pflegeleicht.

Farbe: schwarz; mit rötlich, braunem Schimmer.

Erwünschte Widerristhöhe: Für Rüden : 55-63 cm, Für Hündinnen: 55-59 cm. Gewicht: Hündinnen: 30-32kg, Rüde:bis 35kg.

ich beglückwünsche Sie zu Ihrem neuen Familienmitglied. Sie haben mit dem Black River einen erstklassigen Hund erworben, der Ihnen viel Freude bereiten wird. Die ausgezeichneten Eigenschaften über Charakter, Lernbereitschaft, Intelligenz, Arbeitswillen und seine Kinderfreundlichkeit werden sie begeistern. Der Black River ist ein sportlich aktiver und verspielter Hund, der durch seine Anpassungsfähigkeit und seine Leichtführigkeit punkten kann. Er ist sensibel und anhänglich und braucht viel Liebe und Aufmerksamkeit. Er wird Ihnen dies mit seiner Treue lohnen! Sie haben im Black River einen Freund, der Sie durch dick und dünn begleiten wird. Ich kann Ihnen nur viel Spaß und alles Gute auf diesen gemeinsamen Weg wünschen. Selbstverständlich stehe ich Ihnen und Ihrem vierbeinigen Freund auch weiterhin mit Rat und Tat zur Seite.

Ihre Züchterin Marita Mestekempe

Auszug aus dem Register unseres damaligen Rassehunde Verband

Vorsorglich weisen wir darauf hin, da es immer wieder zu verwechslungen kommt:

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Black river hund

CARTRIDGES AND BULLETS FOR BLACK BEAR

The best bear medicine for stand hunting over bait

photography by Joe Riekers

First let’s get the obvious out of the way. Black bears have been killed with just about any cartridge you can think of. I have personally taken part or witnessed a black bear fall dead to a .357 Jacketed Hollow Point fired from a 3” barrel handgun and one to a 219 Zipper! If you were there you’d easily conclude that either of those cartridges is dynamite on bears but that is a dangerous, even potentially deadly assumption to make. You should choose your ammo based on time proven parameters that put the odds in your favor. Close range bears in thick woods require special considerations.

The three factors that influence your ammunition performance in typical northeast hunting scenarios are the bear’s anatomy, the close range and the downward angle of the shot. These three factors are fairly consistent when hunting over bait from a tree stand. The only variable is the shot placement. You can limit the variation by vigilant practice, particularly practice shooting from tree stand height at a target 20-25 yards away. We cannot control the bears position or movement which will ultimately affect where the shot hits. What we can do is chose the best bullet/cartridge combination for a variety of situations.

The bear’s heart is low and forward in the chest. It is protected by a large, hard leg bone. The lungs are large but are positioned behind an equally large scapula. All of the vitals are underneath a heavy coat of matted hair, a thick and pliable hide and a substantial layer of fat. The fat and hair often clog up holes and prevent blood from seeping out. Typical baits are located from 15 to 30 yards from the stand. The close range can effect shot placement and bullet performance. A lot of people have a hard time distinguishing the “sweet spot” to shoot on a fat, close, dark bear. It is fairly common for a novice to shoot high and back a bit. Some hunters cannot resist sighting in their gun to hit high at 100 yards in spite of the guides’ advice. It is extremely important to sight in exactly as your outfitter instructs. They want you to get a bear and they know the stands and the terrain. You are not gaining any advantage by thinking you can outsmart the guide by sighting in for longer range “just in case”. What you are doing is making it more likely you will miss or worse make a bad shot.

This information is not about shot placement, it is about bullets. I will not harp on shot placement but I will point out there are two distinct schools of thought. One is to aim for the lungs behind the shoulder. That is the largest vital area. The second is to shoot right into the shoulder, which may also break the front leg bone or the neck. The actual shoulder is a small area. A good shot into the shoulder will nearly always knock a bear down right where it is but a second shot may be required to expedite death. Listen to your guide regarding shot placement. Discuss your skill level and equipment and agree on what shots you will attempt before you climb into your tree.

The close range encountered in when hunting over bait also affects bullet performance. Bullets are designed to perform within certain limits. I will be more specific about bullets a little further on but for now let’s agree that at close range the velocity hasn’t slowed down much. This can cause a bullet failure in some designs. If the bullets doesn’t do what it should have the bear will be wounded or you may face a difficult tracking job.

The downward angle can directly affect bullet performance and the lethality of the wound. It is very common to hit a bear in the “vital square” and have the bullet come out under the bear on the opposite side. Think about a straight line through the bear from the tree stand to the ground. If the first shot is too low the bullet may only get the bottom of one lung. If it is too high it may hit between the neck and shoulder and exit behind the opposite shoulder without hitting any vitals.

The bullet will behave differently depending on what it hits while going into and through the bear. A bone will cause faster expansion and slow the bullet down while just penetrating through flesh will cause much less bullet deformation and velocity loss. When aiming, you should think of an imaginary line straight through the bear and consider not only where the bullet will enter, but where it will exit. Proper bullet selection will assure appropriate performance under a variety of circumstances.

Taking all the above into account it is time to outline our parameters for cartridge performance. I don’t want to keep you in suspense any longer. However, don’t get offended or start huffing when you hear what I have to say. Consider that this is a guideline based on being around 30 bear kills and consulting with bear guides that can reflect on about 100 more.

The bullet should be a premium or hardcast bullet that is heavy for caliber, ideally .35 caliber or bigger in diameter and a nominal velocity for the bullet design. What does this include? Well with the right bullet it includes 35 Remington; 44 Magnum and 45 Colt and their derivatives; .348 and .358; most .375’s, some European and African traditionals like 458 Winchester and 9.3X74R; .444 and .450 Marlin; 45-70 and like 45 calibers of black powder origin; 50 caliber muzzleloaders, and .50 Alaskan, Wyoming and S&W centerfire cousins and; 20 and 12 gauge slugs. You don’t see your favorite? You can’t believe I have the nerve to leave out the 30-30? Well hold on, this list is not all inclusive and if you stick with me you will probably fit your cartridge into the guidelines

What kills an animal? Death occurs when blood does not carry oxygen to the brain. What oxygenates the blood to begin with? The lungs inflate and pressurize putting oxygen in the bloodstream. How do we find an animal that does not drop dead right there? Follow the blood trail. So ideally, I want a bullet that will go in the bear, damage the circulatory system and exit too. There are a lot of heated discussions about whether a bullet should exit or stay in an animal. I’m not debating the merits of the later; I am telling you what works to let blood out and increase the odds of finding a bear that runs after being hit.

I already told you that a bear’s fat and hair commonly clog up wounds. Collectively, I have found that a hole at least .35 diameter is the minimum size to make it likely that blood will come out. The bigger the hole the more likely it will let blood out. In 2005 I shot a bear 5 times with a 45-70 as it ran and there was not one drop of blood on the outside of it. I did not know it at the time but the softpoint bullets were actually too soft and did not penetrate through the bear. The entry holes clogged up tight.

If a bullet is going to exit the bear it has to be able to get through a lot of stuff to make it from the entry to the point of exit. The bullet needs to retain weight and stay together in order to get that done. The performance depends on the bullet design and the bullet weight. I have found a minimum bullet weight of around 250 grains is the starting point for consistent through and through penetration. Combined with my recommended minimum bullet diameter of .35 you can see that the 35 Remington barely makes it with its 200 or 220 grain bullets. However, it gets the job done because the bullet is operating within ideal parameters for its design. In fact, bullet design is going to be the most important factor if you are using a 6mm or 7mm or a .30 -.33 caliber or whatever high velocity bottleneck cartridge you prefer.

There are 2 types of bullets that will consistently penetrate through a bear at close range: premium and hard-cast. That didn’t leave out much did it? You’re probably thinking I left out varmint bullets, target bullets and self-defense loads. I pretty much covered everything else. Well I intentionally left out conventional bullets – the type that makes up 75% of the loads available. The biggest factor regarding bullet design is the construction and velocity.

Conventional bullets are basically cup and core designs. Melted lead is poured into a copper jacket. The problem is that this type of bullet is made to expand uniformly at certain velocities and with little resistance. When hunting bear over bait we are dealing with close range shooting so the bullet hasn’t lost much velocity when it gets to the bear. Most bottleneck cartridges launch a conventional bullet too fast for close range work. The bullet is designed to mushroom and stay together at reduced velocities that most likely start at around 100 yards. At 15 to 25 yards the bullet is going too fast for the jacket and core to stay together and mushroom uniformly. What results is bullet fragmentation. The core separates from the jacket causing a significant weight loss and a violent expansion. Many of the classic blunt nosed bullet firing cartridges operate at nominal velocities and therefore perform admirably with conventional bullets. The 200 and 220 grain bullets in 35 caliber are designed to expand in a controlled manner at velocities somewhere between 1500 and 2000 fps. A 25 yard bear will be hit by the bullet at a velocity within those parameters. The curveball to conventional bullets operating within specifications is contact with hard bone and dense flesh. Bear have much thicker bones than deer and their hide and muscle is thicker. Conventional bullets can come apart when a hard bone is struck; especially on an angle that puts more stress on one side of the jacket. The bottom line is that conventional bullets will work on bear if they are used within the proper operating specifications and shot placement is good. Some good examples are the 405 grain 45-70’s driven to around 1500 fps muzzle velocity and the 220 grain .348 Winchester fired at around 2100 fps. The downfall to conventional bullets for use on close range bear is that the performance is somewhat unpredictable. It is subject to muzzle velocity and obstacles encountered by the bullet. Overall, conventional bullets will not consistently expand and exit a bear at close range. Here’s an example of how they can fail. A trusty 7mm Remington Magnum fired a 150 grain Winchester Power Point bullet that hit a bear in the shoulder at precisely 21 yards. The bullet penetrated less than half way through the bear and bits of lead and copper were scattered around the wound channel. Two things occurred that were detrimental. First, the bullet is designed to expand slowly between 2300 and 2700 feet per second. At 21 yards, the bullet was still traveling over 2900 feet per second. Secondly, the bullet is made for light, thin-skinned game. The jacket is thin and the core is soft. Between the hard, thick bear and the high impact velocity the bullet was overstressed and came apart.

Premium bullets are the best combination of expansion and penetration on close range black bear. Premium bullets incorporate a design that allows it to expand in a controlled manner without the jacket and core separating. This is achieved in different ways by different manufacturers. One of the oldest styles is the Nosler Partition. The bullet has a thick wall between the front half and back half of the bullet. The front will expand, sometimes rapidly and violently. The rear will nearly always remain intact and retain weight to further penetration. The Swift A-Frame uses the same principle but the front has a thicker jacket to expand a bit slower than the Nosler. Another design is the bonded core. These bullets are made with a process that fuses the core and jacket together so they stay together during expansion. Additionally, most bonded core bullets will expand at a steady rate regardless of the velocity. Examples of these are Kodiaks, Sciroccos, and Bear Claws. Barnes eliminates the core altogether by using a solid copper bullet with pre cut petals to open and start expansion. Shotgun slugs that are reduced diameter in a sabot can be had with premium bullets as well. Several brands offer the Barnes copper solid slug as well as other premium designed slugs. Muzzleloader bullets are often pistol bullets in a sabot. Again, look for the premiums such as Nosler Partitions, Barnes X and Hornady Interlocks. All of these premium bullets stay in one piece at a wide range of velocities and even when they hit resistance they retain weight and penetrate very deep.

If you are going to use your bottleneck cartridge rifle for close range black bear, premium bullets are the only way to go. Use a premium bullet that is heavy for the caliber, for example in 30 caliber this would be 180 grain plus, in 7mm it is 175 grain. A heavy premium bullet will certainly increase the odds of a pass through shot in your favor but overall they are still less reliable than the heavy, large bore, medium velocity cartridges cited earlier. To be clear I will give one example of how even a premium bullet can fail because it is operating out of its design parameters. The same 7mm Remington Magnum mentioned before fired a 175 grain Barnes X bullet at a bear standing 27 yards from the muzzle. The bullet hit the bear and exited, but left no blood trail. When the bear was located about 100 yards away it was still alive and needed to be shot again. The bullet should perform perfectly at velocities from 1900 feet per second to 2700 feet per second, give or take a little on either end. This bullet was traveling somewhere very close to the 2700 feet per second when it hit the bear behind the shoulder. The bullet went between two ribs, traveled though both lungs and exited behind the rib cage on the other side. This bullet did not hit anything hard while traveling at maximum velocity and therefore never got a chance to expand like it would have if it slowed down or hit bones. Since the bullet was only .284 to begin with, the wound channel was literally like a pencil hole through the bear.

Premium bullets in moderate velocity cartridges provide the best of both worlds. The bullets are always performing within their design specifications. Therefore, they expand reliably and retain weight to penetrate consistently. They are designed to hold together they easily smash through bone and thick hide and muscle, especially if you choose a heavy bullet to begin with. Most of the time they will exit the bear. The exit holes are substantial. A .45 or .50 caliber bullet can expand to an inch in diameter. The .35 caliber bullets can reach three quarters of an inch before they exit. The huge wound channels and big entry and exit holes produce a good blood trail and a lot of damage to the parts that keep bears alive.

Hard cast bullets work in a different way. Hard cast bullets are solid bullets of lead and alloy that remain hard and intact without expansion. Since hard cast bullets are primarily designed for medium to large caliber they really don’t need to expand. Consider a .45 caliber hard cast bullet will stay at least .45 diameter. If we started with a 7mm bullet at .284 and it accomplished a respectable expansion of 75% its size or .426 it would still be smaller than the .45 caliber bullet.

There is a big difference between hard cast bullets and plain cast lead bullets. The cast lead bullets commonly found in cowboy ammo, target ammo and plinking ammo is soft and is not made to remain intact at high velocity or when contacting hard bone. Soft lead bullets that come in contact with hard or dense resistance will smear. This is when the bullet sheds weight and loses its shape because lead is coming off as it travels through the resistance. It is similar to hard pressing a crayon against a paper on a hard desk and drawing a line. Two other detrimental things can happen to soft cast lead bullets. Sometimes they will bend and even expand a little and sometime they will break into more than one piece. If a soft bullet breaks it is even more problematic because the soft pieces lack the weight and density to continue traveling though resistance. I had a lengthy discussion with a representative at Ultramax, specifically regarding their 45-70, 405 grain Cowboy load for use on bear. He basically told me what I already spelled out for you. The bullets are very soft and not designed to retain their weight or shape for penetration in spite of the relatively low muzzle velocity. He absolutely does not recommend them for anything larger than a medium sized whitetail deer at relatively close range.

Back to hard cast bullets. They are made with metallurgy that allows for a hard but not brittle bullet. The front of the bullet may smear a bit but a good hard cast bullet will not lose enough weight or shape to stop inside a black bear shot at close range. Good hard cast bullets like those from Cast Performance, Oregon Trail and Montana Bullet Works are made to stay together through tough bone and thick muscle. The bullets may change course after penetrating through a particularly thick bone but they will usually not shed enough velocity to stop them.

There are two additional categories of lead bullets, shotgun slugs and muzzleloader projectiles. The same rules apply to these firearms projectiles. The bullet should be hard cast and should be operating within the design specifications. Many shotgun slugs are made with soft lead because they are primarily intended for use on deer. Look for full bore diameter lead slugs and stay away from hollow points. What I mean by full diameter is a slug that is the whole size of the bore, not a reduced diameter slug inside a sabot. Brenneke and the Remington Buck Hammer are two examples of full size solid, hard slugs that are effective on close range bears. Use heavy slugs when you can such as over one ounce in twelve gauge and over 7/8 ounce in 20 gauge. In muzzleloaders, use a heavy bullet with premium hard lead. Some also have features to help maintain the bullet shape and integrity such as ribs or a solid core. An example of a hard cast muzzleloader bullet made to penetrate is the Thompson/Center Maxi-Ball. Avoid hollow point lead muzzleloader bullets and hollow based conicals. They are too soft to be reliable on close range bears.

The most well known bear hunter of this decade has got to be Jim Shockey. His bear hunts on Vancouver Island and other Canadian locations are a little different than the typical Northeast United States bear hunt. Jim is hunting bear that on average weigh substantially more than typical woods bears below our northern border. He is also using spot and stalk hunting instead of baits. Nonetheless, he does try to get close shots whenever possible. His firearm/bullet of choice is a .50 caliber black powder rifle firing a 300 grain .45 caliber Nosler Partition bullet in a sabot at muzzle velocity of around 1700 feet per second. As Jim puts it, he trusts his life on it. This is a perfect example of a premium bullet being applied within its design parameters.

Yeah, you can kill a bear with a lot of different bullets that are not considered ideal for bear hunting. I’ll bet some bears have even been killed with a .22 rimfire. However, when you pick a bullet/cartridge combination ask yourself this: If you were looking for a potentially wounded bear in thick cover would you bet your life on it? Of course you can also use your bottleneck cartridge firing rifle, but it is likely not ideal. A .308 or 300 Magnum certainly has the ability to kill black bear but the cartridges lack the qualities to make pass through wound channels that leave massive blood trails. Premium bullets will increase the odds in your favor but you are still asking a bullet to do a job outside of its comfort zone. In the thick bear woods we want to kill quickly and humanely, and recover the bear. The greatest chance of both occurs when a bullet leaves two big holes in the bear with blood coming out of both of them. This is best accomplished with medium to large caliber bullets of premium or hardcast design at a nominal velocity.

Check out Joe's website for your hunting adventures: http://www.tarsporting.com.

Got something to say about this article? Want to agree (or disagree) with it? Click the following link to go to the GUNBlast Feedback Page.

Click pictures for a larger version.

Black bear taken with a .45-70 shooting 405-grain Kodiaks.

200 pound bear took 5 solid hits before going down.

Various .45 cal. cast and bonded core bullets recovered from game.

A premium bonded core bullet recovered from game.

Two different style bonded core bullets recovered from game.

A .44 caliber partition style premium bullet recovered from game.

Bound for Mauritius

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Velkommen til La Preneuse, Black River

… Vi er flyttet! Og hold nu helt op hvor er det dejligt 🙂 . Jeg har sagt det før, og siger det gerne igen, tiden flyver af sted i øjeblikket. Siden sidste opdatering har vi været til Maha Shivaratee, flyttet, modtaget vores ting ( alle vores ting) – goddag til brødblandinger, lakridser og 10 mio. tons vasketøj.. Samt svømmet med delfiner kl. mega tidligt om morgenen (hvilket var en vild oplevelse), deltaget som statister i pænt tøj (os begge) og høje hæle (mig altså) i et fotoshoot for Casela Park (billederne skal bruges til reklame for udlejning af restauranten til forskellige arrangementer). Og, og, og, og.. Vi vælter os i oplevelser, selvvalgte naturligvis – men samtidig er der også en lille bitte smule tid til at nyde det hele.

Jeg havde en intention om at kunne nedfælde det hele efterhånden som det sker, men det er bare ikke muligt, og jeg er nødt til at opdatere “gamle hændelser” bagud. Jeg er gået i “husmormode”, og befinder mig efterhånden overraskende godt med den rolle – samtidig får jeg netværket en lille smule, og mine dage går hurtigere end jeg kan nå at blinke (sådan føles det i alle fald). Vi er stadig ved at få vores hjem op at stå, vi er flyttet ind i en møbleret lejlighed, hvilket er det eneste alternativ, hvis vi da ikke skal ud og erhverve møbler osv. Dette er ikke en option for os, dels fordi vi har et helt hjem opmagasineret i DK, og dels fordi vi ikke ønsker at bruge de penge det nu engang koster, at starte helt forfra med anskaffelser af alt hvad en bolig nu kan indeholde. Som vi så blot skal have solgt igen, når vores tid hernede er ved at slutte. Så vi bor til leje i en lejlighed med møbler, som ikke lige er vores stil… Hvis vi selv kunne vælge. Men det kan vi så ikke, og det fungerer fint – vi er så småt ved at falde til.

La Preneuse ligger ca. 6-7 km mere sydlig på vestkysten end Flic en Flac, her er dejligt stille ifht. feriebyen. Området er ”expat-land”, men samtidig superhyggeligt. Vores hjem er delt op i 2 etager, vi råder over ca. 80 kvm 2 inklusiv en veranda, en terrasse på 1. sal (her er vi mest), et frimærke af en have (hvori der gror de stærkeste hvide chili, røde majs, og passionsfrugter.. uhm!). Ud over det deler vi poolområdet med de andre lejligheder (4 stk. i alt) og fælles udendørs areal på 1. salen. Her er ca. samme afstand til stranden som i Flic en Flac. Stranden i La Preneuse er en miniature udgave af hvad vi kom fra, og bærer præg af at det er de som bor hernede, som er – flittige – brugere. Det gør at fluepapir syndromet er mindre udtalt – et plus – desuden er det stemningen hernede mere afslappet, eftersom der ikke ligger barer på hvert gadehjørne. Eneste minus er myg! Vi er blevet til nålepuder, og er i gang med at eksperimentere med det rette våben mod de små bæster. “Dyrelivet” er rigt, vi har jævnligt gekkoer (små af slagsen) i huset, udover myg, græshopper, biller, edderkopper, en enkelt kakerlak i ny og næ, mega natsværmere, tusindben, myrer og hunde (udlejers godt nok) på besøg… Hundene, gekkoerne, edderkopperne, natsværmerene og billerne er velkomne – græshopperne er også, så længe de holder mund… Myggene skal seriøst til at finde sig et andet sted at være, og kakerlakkerne bliver sprayet til døde. Myrerne holder sig faktisk ok pænt ude af huset – så alt i alt er det hele ganske fint 🙂 .

Vi bor på en vej, hvor vi til den ene side har den vildeste udsigt til et højdedrag, på den anden side udsigt til et krat og de to andre sider ligger der huse. Foroven er der det skønneste display af et stjernetæppe efter mørkets frembrud (som indtræder ca. kl. 19.00 hver aften), totalt balsam for sjælen.

Tilbage til vores hus/lejlighed: Vi bor i et hus på ca. 600 kvm 2 , som er delt op i 4 lejligheder… Den ene er vores, der bor en hyggelig – og meget hårdt arbejdende – mand i den anden, den tredie er udlejers, og den sidste står pt. tom, men lejes nogen gange ud som feriebolig. Det betyder at vi for det meste har det hele for os selv. Med til huset hører Oye – Oye er et gadekryds, som fungerer som vagthund, en 17 år gammel svend. Vi har kun hilst på ham en gang, da han pt. residerer i Curepipe hos sine ejere (grundet 2 stk nyligt ankommet hundehvalpe (Griffons), som en af ejerens andre hunde er mor til. Oye kommer tilbage snart, da han fungerer som værn mod folk som kunne tænkes at ville løbe med hele hytten. Det sagt, så er han dejlig og skøn. Jeg har ikke haft hund i umindelige tider, så det er bliver helt hyggeligt at have selskab – Oye passer for det meste sig selv, og skal blot fodres og kløs på maven i ny og næ (siges det).

Nå, vores lejlighed er som sagt i 2 etager. I stueetagen er det et stort rum som er køkken og stue (lidt som vores gamle lejlighed i DK), samt et badeværelse som er adskilt fra resten af en væg – der ikke går helt op til loftet. Vi er ved at vende os til at være i bad og på toilettet med hinanden, i det lydbilledet gør at man følge med i alt hvad der sker på den anden side af væggen, hmm! 1. salen er delt op i 2: Et soveværelse, og en repos, som er så stor at det fungerer som kontor og gæsteværelse. Det har man løst ved at sætte nogle kraftige persienner op (som egentligt bruges til udestuer hernede), og det fungerer rigtig godt. For enden af kontoret/gæsteværelset er der udgang til vores terrasse, den vender ud til krattet og vejen, der kan vi sidde uforstyrret – samtidig er det det sted hvor der er mest skygge det meste af dagen (morgen, formiddag og aften).

Vi er kommet ud til et internet, som fungerer fint. Dog er båndbredden så lille, at det er lidt op ad bakke at streame – og det går også udover Skype. René er ved at undersøge hvad det koster, at få vores helt egen forbindelse, kontra at få udlejers forbindelse opgraderet… Og nej, tingene fungerer ikke helt som derhjemme, du bestiller og får det leveret om et par måneder – hvis du er rigtig heldig… Derfor har vi endnu ikke været i kontakt med folk hjemmefra via Skype – da den jævnligt glemmer at loade. Nuvel, ting tager tid, vi er ved at lære at det er betingelserne, og beskæftiger os med noget andet i mellemtiden. Så som dykkercertifikat; vi starter på et Openwater kursus på lørdag… Vi har fundet en rigtig dygtig dykkerinstruktør, han tager sit job 1000% seriøst og går m-e-g-e-t op i sikkerheden omkring det at dykke. Det burde give sig selv, men desværre er der eksempler i dykkermiljøet – verdenen over – på, at folk bliver kittet ud og kastet i vandet uden at have basis på plads. Det kommer dog ikke til at ske i vores tilfælde, og der er ved at brede sig en forventningens glæde, i vores lille hus, over at det snart bliver lørdag.

Klokken er nu 5 om morgenen, her er semi-tyst og mørkt stadigvæk… Området er så småt ved at vågne, eller gør det snart pga. en hund – som skiftevis hyler og gør. Fuglene er så småt begyndt at pippe, om en time står solen op til en ny dag. Jeg vil daffe i seng igen og få lidt søvn, inden René skal op.

Hils omkring jer derhjemme, håber at alt er vel 🙂 .

One thought on “ Velkommen til La Preneuse, Black River ”

Det lyder helt fantastisk – sikke det går – dejligt for jer.

Der var en kort artikel om Mauritius i Politiken-Rejser I søndags. Den var overfladisk, men omtalte jeres seneste feastival.

Black and Tan Coonhound

Like their Beagle and Bloodhound cousins in the hound family, Black and Tan Coonhounds have an amazingly sensitive nose, long velvety ears, and a sweet disposition. The coal-black coat features rich tan accents, including the distinctive “pumpkin seeds” above keenly expressive eyes. These are big, strong hounds: A good-size male can stand 27 inches at the shoulder; he’s considerably taller when the majestic oval-shaped head is taken into account. A well-built Black and Tan Coonhound covers ground with effortless, eager strides.

Dog Breeds
Black and Tan Coonhound

Personality: Easygoing, friendly, bright; mellow by the fireside, rugged and brave on the trail
Energy Level: Somewhat Active; Big, athletic hunters who work nights, B&Ts need regular exercise between naps
Good with Children: Yes
Good with other Dogs: Yes
Shedding: Seasonal
Grooming: Occasional
Trainability: Independent
Height: 25-27 inches (male), 23-25 inches (female)
Weight: 65-110 pounds
Life Expectancy: 10-12 years
Barking Level: Likes To Be Vocal

meet theBlack and Tan Coonhound

Did you know?

The Black and Tan Coonhound is believed to be derived from Bloodhounds and Foxhounds.

How similar

Breed History

The Black and Tan Coonhound was officially recognized by the AKC

Learn more about the Black and Tan Coonhound breed standard.

at aGlance

Energy & Size

AKC Dog Ranking

Personality

Brave
Bright
Easy-going

Easygoing, friendly, bright; mellow by the fireside, rugged and brave on the trail.

NATIONAL BREED CLUB

theBreed Standard

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Show off your love for the Black and Tan Coonhound!

General Appearance

The Black and Tan Coonhound is first and fundamentally a working dog, a trail and tree hound, capable of withstanding the rigors of winter, the heat of summer, and the difficult terrain over which he is called upon to work. Used principally for trailing and treeing raccoon, the Black and Tan Coonhound runs his game entirely by scent. The characteristics and courage of the Coonhound also make him proficient on the hunt for deer, bear, mountain lion and other big game. Judges are asked by the club sponsoring the breed to place great emphasis upon these facts when evaluating the merits of the dog. The general impression is that of power, agility and alertness. He immediately impresses one with his ability to cover the ground with powerful rhythmic strides.

The head is cleanly modeled. From the back of the skull to the nose the head measures from 9 to 10 inches in males and from 8 to 9 inches in females. Expression is alert, friendly and eager. The skin is devoid of folds. Nostrils well open and always black. The flews are well developed with typical hound appearance. Penalize excessive wrinkles. Eyes are from hazel to dark brown in color, almost round and not deeply set. Penalize yellow or light eyes. Ears are low set and well back. They hang in graceful folds, giving the dog a majestic appearance. In length they extend naturally well beyond the tip of the nose and are set at eye level or lower. Penalize ears that do not reach the tip of the nose and are set too high on the head.

Neck, Topline, Body

The neck is muscular, sloping, medium length. The skin is devoid of excess dewlap. The back is level, powerful and strong. The dog possesses full, round, well sprung ribs, avoiding flatsidedness. Chest reaches at least to the elbows. The tail is strong, with base slightly below level of backline, carried free and when in action at approximately right angle to back.

Forequarters

Powerfully constructed shoulders. The forelegs are straight, with elbows turning neither in nor out; pasterns strong and erect. Feet are compact, with well knuckled, strongly arched toes and thick, strong pads. Penalize flat or splayed feet.

Hindquarters

Quarters are well boned and muscled. From hip to hock long and sinewy, hock to pad short and strong. Stifles and hocks well bent and not inclining either in or out. When standing on a level surface, the hind feet are set back from under the body and the leg from pad to hock is at right angles to the ground. Fault-Rear dewclaws.

The coat is short but dense to withstand rough going.

Black and Tan CoonhoundCare

Good nutrition for Black and Tan Coonhounds is very important from puppyhood to their senior years.

Their short dense coat, which sheds dirt well, also has a slightly oily feel to it.

They can keep pace with the most active family, but they also can happily hog the sofa for hours on end.

The Black & Tan Coonhound is generally a healthy breed.

Basset Retriever

The Basset Retriever is also known as the Basset Vertier and is a mix of a Basset Hound and a Golden Retriever. She is an easy going and friendly medium sized dog with a life expectancy of between 10 to 12 years. They come under the hounding group of dogs and have talent in watchdog and hunting. They are also used in field trials as well as as working dogs.

Where does the Basset Retriever come from?

It is thought that the Basset Retriever was first bred in Great Britain but not much more is known about its origins. It is not an old mixed breed, designer breeds became popular in the last 10 to 15 years and the Basset Retriever came about from that new trend. Her qualities in terms of looks and personality cannot be controlled or predicted though and need to be derived from an understanding of both the Basset Hound and the Golden Retriever.

The Basset Hound

The Basset Hound is a dog with origins from France way back before the French Revolution. They were used at first by the French aristocracy for hunting because of their superb tracking and ability to go through brush even in thick forests for hare and rabbits and such. After the Revolution the working man continued to use them as a hunting dog they were still able to follow on foot. Today he is far more than a hush puppy logo. He is a laid back dog that is still alert to act as a watch dog for his family. He is loyal and affectionate and also stubborn which means training can require some patience. He has a real tendency to overeat if allowed and he still loves to follow the scent of something.

The Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever comes from Scotland where he was bred by Lord Tweedmouth. Lord Tweedmouth loved to hunt and wanted a dog who not only was a talented retriever, but who also paid more attention and listened to his human hunting partner than the dogs used at the time (spaniels and setters). Lord Tweedmouth also wanted a dog that was a great family companion when not out hunting with him with an even-temperament and great loyalty. The Golden Retriever did not disappoint and still today has those wonderful qualities that make him so in demand as a family pet. Today he is sweet, eager to please, still loves to work and is great with children.

Temperament

The Basset Retriever is a lovely dog, gentle, friendly, social and loyal to her family or companion. They love to play and are full of energy a a love of life and a love for those around her. She is affectionate and will have you wrapped around her little paw. She is intelligent too so be sure to give her plenty of mental stimulation as well as physical.

What does a Basset Retriever look like

She is a medium sized dog mostly, though sometimes at the top end of her weight range she could be classed as a large dog. She weighs 40 to 60 pounds and is up to 14 inches tall. Her eyes are round and dark and her ears are long and hang down on her cheeks. Her body is long and low to the ground like a Basset Hound with shorter legs. Her coat is usually straight, shiny and soft and comes in colors such as golden, red, black, brown, white, chocolate or a golden rose color.

Training and Exercise Needs

How much exercise does she need?

They are pretty energetic and need to be active to burn some of that energy off! When taking them out for a walk keep them on a leash unless in an enclosed area as their love for scents and hunting could have them off chasing the latest scent they caught. They are hard to dissuade from a course once they start tracking. Also they do have a loud bay they sound out when they go on the hunt. A daily walk or two is needed along with some play time. They can live in a smaller apartment but you need to take them out at least a couple of times a day. If they can have access to a yard that is a good thing.

How easy to train is she?

She is mostly easy enough to train as she gets an intelligence from the Retriever side. If she takes more after the retriever in terms of wanting to please she will listen and learn well. There is a stubbornness that can come from the Basset Hound side though so if you run into that you will need to keep a firm hand and be consistent and patient. Avoid punishments or shouting it will not achieve anything. Keep being positive, reward her with praise and treats. She will certainly love the treats!

Living with a Basset Retriever

Grooming needs

Once a week to remove loose hairs will be good enough in terms of brushing her coat but during shedding season she will need it to be done once a day. Be prepared during that time to have to clean up your furniture and clothing, a good vacuum cleaner will help. Bathing can be done once a month unless she gets herself all dirty when outside in which case do when needed.

Other grooming requirements are the same as any other dog. Check her over once a week to make sure all looks healthy including her eyes. Brush her teeth at least 2 to 3 times a week as she may be more prone to dental issues and wipe her ears clean once a week to prevent infection. Nails will need clipping but it may be something you choose to leave to the vet or groomer. Dog nails have a blood vessel in them so cannot be cut too low or it causes pain to them and a lot of bleeding. Learn how to do it or have the vet show you if you want to do it yourself.

How good with children and pets is she?

She is great with children, very friendly and loves to play with them and she is good with other pets and dogs too. Just keep in mind that she has a hunting background so small pets may seem like prey to her unless she is properly socialized from a young age. It also helps if she is raised with them. Socialization can start from as young as a month old. Make sure children know not to try and sit on her, that long back is tempting to them sometimes, as that could cause serious injury to her.

General information

She can be prone to obesity so make sure you do not let her graze on food and that she just gets what she needs. Two meals a day that together equal 2½ to 3 cups of good quality dry dog food is sufficient. She is fine in most climates though it is best to avoid extreme cold temperatures. She is a good watch dog and will bark to alert you if an intruder enters your home. She is suitable for living in apartments or smaller homes as long as she gets outside enough.

Health Concerns

There are no known major health conditions for this dog though being relatively new things could still come up. It is possible for them to inherit tendencies their parent dogs have for certain ailments such as skin disease, ear infections, allergies, obesity, dental issues and joint dysplasia.

Costs involved in owning a Basset Retriever

This type of dog is easy to find and puppies can found for $650 to $950. Prices change depending on popularity, where you are and availability. You will also find that reputable breeders will price their puppies higher than less preferable sources. This cost is worth it though, you are getting assurances of parental health, and some medical testing may already have been carried out to check on your puppy's health.

There are other costs involved in having a puppy though apart from cost of the puppy itself. She will need to be spayed, a microchip, blood tests and deworming if not already done, you will need a crate, a collar, leash, bedding, food bowls. This is going to cost somewhere between $500 to $650. Then there are yearly costs to keep in mind. Prepare for medical emergencies by saving or getting pet health insurance. Vaccinations, flea prevention, health checks, license, food, toys, treats, training to name but a few. Just those things will be around $700 to $900. Should you need to use a dog kennel, a dog walker or sitter, a groomer and so on that will be extra.

Looking for a Basset Retriever Puppy Name? Let select one from our list!

The Basset Retriever has some qualities that make her an excellent companion or family dog. She is easy going and friendly and will reward you for your devotion by loving you right back. Just be ready for the scent following and make sure she does not pig out on her food!

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Treeing Walker Coonhound

Information and Pictures

Roscoe the Treeing Walker Coonhound at 2 years old—"Roscoe does not bark, he bays and howls."

Other Names

TWC
Walker

Description

The Treeing Walker Coonhound has powerful, mobile shoulders. The ears are large compared to the head. The upper lips hang well below the lower jaw. The forelegs are long, straight and lean. The smooth coat is fine and glossy and comes in a tricolor and a bicolor pattern. (Tricolor is preferred by breeders.) Although it comes in tan and white, it must never be called "red," to distinguish it from the Redbone Coonhound.

Temperament

The Treeing Coonhound is good with children and gets along with other dogs. Training is accomplished with little trouble, as these dogs are able to learn from example. They are primarily working and hunting dogs, but will also make great companion dogs. Working, to the Treeing Walker Coonhound, is not work but a sport and diversion. They thrive on consistent and ample attention. The Treeing Walker will be high-strung without enough mental and physical exercise. Loving and eager to please, the Treeing Walker is intelligent, skilled and confident. Some say they are the best breed for coonhound field trials because of their speed, ability to locate quickly and good treeing ability. They are swift with a very good sense of smell and a distinctive howl. Socialize at a young age.

Height, Weight

Height: 20 - 27 inches (51 - 69 cm)

Weight: 50 - 70 pounds (23 - 32 kg)

Health Problems

A relatively healthy breed.

Living Conditions

The Treeing Walker Coonhound is not recommended for apartment life. These scenthounds are too anxious to lie idly around a suburban home or condo. They are suitable for hot, sunny climates.

This very anxious and energetic dog has been bred for severe physical exercise. Coonhounds are born natural hunters, so they have a tendency to run off and hunt if they are not kept well-fenced while exercising on their own. They have no road sense at all, so they must be kept in a safe environment. They need to be taken on a daily, brisk, long walk or jog. Coonhounds that do not receive enough mental and physical exercise may become high strung and even destructive.

Life Expectancy

About 12-13 years.

The Treeing is an easy-care breed. An occasional combing and brushing is all that is needed. Check the ears regularly for any sign of infection and be sure to keep the insides of the ears clean. Bathe only when necessary. This breed is an average shedder.

The Treeing Walker is a descendant of the English Foxhound, which Thomas Walker imported to Virginia in 1742. Sometime in the 1800s, a dog known as "Tennessee Lead," a stolen dog of unknown origin, was crossed into the Walker Hound. He was a powerful dog, excelling in game sense, drive and speed, and having a clear, short-chop mouth. The Treeing Walker was not recognized as its own breed until 1946. This direct lineage brings us this efficient hunter. This coonhound has retained the looks of its ancestor, the English Foxhound. An underlying sense of game coupled with untiring speed and manly drive make this coonhound unstoppable. The coonhound lineage doesn't really stop at the Walker, for American hunters also employ other varieties as well. One such coonhound is known as the Running Walker. The Treeing Walker Coonhound is an efficient and reliable hunter of raccoons, squirrels and opossums. The Treeing Walker "trees" its prey, and can then sometimes virtually climb the tree to get at it. With a little training, however, it will merely bay its distinctive howl, telling the hunter that the prey has been cornered.

Recognition

ACA = American Canine Association
ACR = American Canine Registry
AKC = American Kennel Club
APRI = American Pet Registry, Inc.
CKC = Continental Kennel Club
DRA = Dog Registry of America, Inc.
NAPR = North American Purebred Registry, Inc.
NKC = National Kennel Club
UKC = United Kennel Club

"This is Clary's HiSpeed This Buds 4 U, affectionately known as `Bud` at home. Bud is a Treeing Walker Coonhound. He is UKC/AKC registered. Bud is a UKC Conformation Champion, Bench Show Champion and an AKC Grand Show Champion. Here, he is displaying his skills on the wall at Lovers Leap."

Clary's HiSpeed This Buds 4 U, affectionately known as `Bud,` treeing his quarry

"This is Hardwood Hi-Voltage, affectionately known as `Pete` at home. Pete is a Treeing Walker Coonhound. He is UKC/PKC registered. Pete is a UKC Nite Champion and Grand Show Champion."

Molly the Treeing Walker Coonhound at 4 years old—"I got Molly when she was 1 year old through an animal rescue group out of San Francisco. They had rescued her from an animal shelter. She is now almost 8 years old and the perfect dog. Molly is well known throughout our town from our long, daily walks where she makes sure everyone knows how much she likes to be petted and scratched."

Molly the Treeing Walker Coonhound at 4 years old

Tugger the Treeing Walker Coonhound as an adult

This is a Treeing Walker treeing a coon.

Tugger the Treeing Walker Coonhound as an adult

Tugger the Treeing Walker Coonhound as a young pup

Asha is Tugger's mom.

Chloe is on the left with the darker face, she's a Treeing Walker Coonhound mix (possibly pointer or some kind of spaniel). Lucy, on the right, is a purebred Treeing Walker Coonhound.

Kensington loves car rides, especially when she gets to stick her head out the moon roof!

Jack the Treeing Walker Coonhound at 4 years old chewing his bone on his dog bed—"We adopted Jack in May of this year from the Nashville humane society. Jack is a LARGE Treeing Walker Coonhound weighing in at about 72 lbs. But he's a walker through and through. He loves to fetch with a stick and truly enjoys his large bone. He's fantastic with my 3 year old daughter, who's been taught that dogs don't like the same things we do. He's patient, kind, absolutely loyal and loves nothing more than work days (out in the yard or on the truck). His velvety ears and hound dog scent are the first thing I see in the morning. He's also great friends with our family cat (Poppy), and he knows she's in charge (under me) and values her space unless she wants to play with him. He loves to run at the dog park with other coonhounds."

Jack the Treeing Walker Coonhound at 4 years old taking a nap with the cat

Jack the Treeing Walker Coonhound at 4 years old taking a nap

Jack the Treeing Walker Coonhound at 4 years old

Breeders

The Material contained herein may not be reproduced without the prior written approval of the author. Contents & Graphics Copyright © Dog Breed Info Center® (C) 1998- . All Rights Reserved. Our work is not Public Domain.

Dog recovering after being thrown from car during Montclair brawl

MONTCLAIR-- Authorities say a dog shown in video on social media being thrown out of a car during a brawl on Bloomfield Avenue on Wednesday is recovering.

In the video posted online on Sunday on Streamable, two individuals shove one another in the middle of Bloomfield Avenue in Montclair next to a parked white Toyota and red Honda. One then reaches into the others' car and hurls a black dog onto the sidewalk.

"The dog is gonna die," a woman recording the incident inside of another vehicle says before driving away. As the video circulated the Internet over the weekend, viewers questioned whether the dog survived.

But investigators learned the dog was not seriously injured after tracking down and speaking to the men, Montclair Sgt. Michael Mongiovi said. The license plates of both vehicles were clearly visible in the clip.

"The dog is well," he said. "We've spoken to both parties involved."

Mongiovi declined to comment on whether either driver would face charges or the circumstances that led to the argument on the township road.

Michele Shiber, the township's animal control officer and investigator, first saw the video online Sunday afternoon and spent the evening trying to find the drivers shown in the clip.

"It's pretty intense video to begin with," she said. "But sometimes social media is a blessing."

The Montclair Animal Cruelty Investigator, Montclair Police Department and the SPCA are investigating the video.

Avalon Zoppo may be reached at azoppo@njadvancemedia.com. Follow her on Twitter at @AvalonZoppo. Find NJ.com on Facebook.

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